I am in process of 67 OTS rebuild. Engine is out and it will be back from paint in a matter of days. My question is whether or not I need to install the bulkhead heater pipes before the engine is back in. My recollection (and its fuzzy due to time) was that one of the pipes (the brake vacum pipe) does not have alot clearance for a riveting gun. I would rather install the engine first, get it home, and then install the pipes based on the fact that I have a 8 year old son with long arms and small hands that really wants to help with the job. So, pipes first, or engine first?
Mark
San Rafael, CA
Submitted by alan.barc@veri… on Thu, 06/09/2011 - 17:35
Submitted by mverwiel@wm.com on Thu, 06/09/2011 - 14:06
Heater Pipe install: '67 OTS
As to the "salty" langauge comment from Mr. Wright....I think he might already be there. You see, there this think called a gas tank.........
Submitted by mverwiel@wm.com on Thu, 06/09/2011 - 13:04
Heater Pipe install: '67 OTS
Alan,
All heater pipes and vacum pipes are out already. so no drilling out rivets at this point. So, do i understand the order of install to be:
1) lower heater pipe
2) vacuum pipe
3) center pipe (over engine stabilixer/mount
4) heater control valve pipe?
I have heard that this is a "rite of passage" for etype owners. I guess I'm about to be indoctrinated.
Thank you all.
Submitted by alan.barc@veri… on Thu, 06/09/2011 - 12:23
Heater Pipe install: '67 OTS
Engine out makes it a little easier to re-rivet but really not a big deal. To replace the bottom pipe it's a lot easier to remove the vacuum transfer pipe first (at least, it is on a Series II). Before drilling out the rivets, pass some string thru the vacuum pipe to simplify the relocation. Then install the 2 new top heater pipes last. I was able to do this fairly quickly last year without any grandson help. Washer nozzles are a whole different story!
P.S.If you're replacing the heater hot/cold valve there have been some design issues with the usual suppliers. Same applies to the O Ring - the one I got was overpriced and so skinny it leaked. The hardware store had a fatter one at a 10th of the price and it doedn't leak,
Submitted by phil19564@1usa.com on Thu, 06/09/2011 - 07:20
Heater Pipe install: '67 OTS
In 10 years or so when you catch your son using salty language, remember this bonding time when he learns them.
Phil.
Submitted by SE98-32482CJ on Wed, 06/08/2011 - 20:17
Heater Pipe install: '67 OTS
You can do it either way--but engine out is a lot easier!
1) and 2), yes. I've forgotton whether 3) and 4) are in that specific order so test them first before applying the rivet gun. They're a lot easier to get at unless you have bear claw paws.