I changed the pads and rotor on a customer x type and wrote a step by step guide with pictures for anybody that wants to tackle this job. Anything to add to the guide please say and criticize, I'm human :P

here is the link:

Submitted by stevejag@sbcgl… on Tue, 07/19/2011 - 22:00

Dick brings up a great point about the calipers. I'll add though that the X-Type is the ONLY car that has pistons that rotate in opposite directions. ALL of our other cars with caliper actuated park brakes turn clockwise to retract the pistons, both sides. Go figure!

Cheers,

Submitted by triath5147@msn.com on Mon, 07/18/2011 - 20:26

Front calipers just push in, back calipers need to be turned in, only if the emergency brake is integral to the disc brakes. I don't have an X-Type, so I don't know if the rear discs are used as an E-Brake, or if they have separate shoes for the E-Brake which is common on Ford's.

Submitted by silver007@shaw.ca on Sun, 07/17/2011 - 23:46

I thought I heard these pistons have to be rotated to get them back in, no one has mentioned this yet......or am I wrong, I hate that when that happens but some times it does.LOL.

Submitted by triath5147@msn.com on Sun, 07/17/2011 - 15:33

Nice, however you don't say anything about pushing the piston back. Which is important to the job and can actually cause brake failure if done improperly. Some experts may not agree but this is how I was taught:
1)Pull piston dust boot out of notch enough to get some silicon spray under the piston dust boot
2)open bleeder
3)using either a C-Clamp or purpose made piston clamp, push piston back.
4) close bleeder
yada yada yada...
?) once caliper is back in place and bolted together, gravity bleed alittle to make sure you get any air out. Although since you are closing the bleeder after pressing the piston back, you usually don't get air into the system.

The silicon spray is important for the following:
It helps to lubricate the dry piston, against the rubber piston seal on the way back. Pushing a dry piston past that seal, can lodge debris in the piston seal, as well as tear the seal, causing premature brake failure.

The bleeder being opened is two fold:
1)No one ever changes their brake fluid like they should, and brake fluid does not last forever like some people think. It absorbs water, contaminates and oils, and contaminated brake fluid is a leading cause of brake hose and seal failures. If you push the piston back with the bleeder closed you are forcing contaminated dirty fluid through the entire system ( ie. valves, sensors, and small orifices that don't like dirt) and also taking the chance of blowing excess brake fluid out the Master cylinder cap, which we all agree, is bad for paint.
2)When replacing any part of the brake system in the future, like brake hoses, etc. it is much easier to open a bleeder that has been opened in the past for brake service and is less likely to be seized.
Just my two cents. Nice write up and the pictures are good. I hate how-to's without pictures. Thanks for taking the time to do it. I'm sure there are plenty of new DIYers that will thank you. I've worked on cars for about 20 years, and I wish I had picture tutorials when I was learning. Of course the internet was just a baby back then.

Submitted by SE98-32482CJ on Fri, 07/15/2011 - 19:07

Nice write up--I think I would add that when the caliper s removed it should be safety wired up and away from the work--if it swings down under weight it can damage the line or those sore fingers!