Thought after wrestling the seal over the glass the chome finisher would be trivial- not. Anyone have any tips or advice for accomplishing this seemingly impossible task? When the manual says to lip the seal over the chrome finisher, does it mean both edges or just the edge adjacent to the glass?

Submitted by mr.jwhey@rocke… on Mon, 01/16/2012 - 09:45

Business at U Cranfield brought me to Cambridge once. May be most beautiful/inspirational place I've ever seen.

Please get in touch once you relocate. I'm in the local club- JANE, Will the D-type be crossing the pond?

Thanks again. Jay

Submitted by NE40-48370 on Sun, 01/15/2012 - 10:09

I would say 'The pleasure was all mine' but I daresay that's not true and you're glad to have licked that problem. The good news is that with the bead properly installed, not only will your trim stray in place but also the window glass. Wouldn't be the first time a glass has popped out at triple-digit speeds in fastback....

I'm actually about 20 miles Soith of Cambridge but nobody has heard of Castle Camps. Anyway, MA has its own illustirous Cambridge, even though it can't quite run to an 800 year-old University. What's more, in a few months I'll be livinig in the same JCNA region as you, North Eastern, instead of being 'member at large'. A little too large my wife tells me, but I'm working on that.

Submitted by mr.jwhey@rocke… on Sat, 01/14/2012 - 20:20

OK. Feeling like a bit of a dope. You're right; locking bead is not down into the bottom groove. It looks to be a very, very tight fit but going to give it a try. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thnx, Jay

Submitted by mr.jwhey@rocke… on Sat, 01/14/2012 - 19:28

Peter,

The trim does not appear to be bent. The outer shoulder is rolled to 90deg all the way around so the seal lip does so much trap it as lip up against it. It's the original trim.

Yes the locking bead projects above the inner seal lip by 0.15 in. I did check to make sure it was forced all the way into the groove and that the window is all the way down relative to the frame. The seal and locking bead were both supplied by SNG Barratt USA. Maybe I need to consult with them to see if I have the wrong locking bead?

Thnx so much for trying to help.

Jay

Submitted by NE40-48370 on Sat, 01/14/2012 - 17:07

There is more than one size of locking bead. Maybe you have the wrong one or there is insufficient room for it to be fully inserted? There should be no significant pressure from underneath popping the trim out. The reasons trim sometimes come out (other than damaged/crumbled seal) are either because it was not locked under both beads or sometimes because the trim is bent and the lips are insufficient to keep it in place against the springiness of the metal . That's why I said step one is to make sure the trim lies flat over the seal before you start installing it.

Does you locking bead protrude above the seal?

Submitted by mr.jwhey@rocke… on Sat, 01/14/2012 - 16:33

After another day working at this I've concluded there's no way my seal will agree to lip over both edges. The crown of the locking rubber just won't depress far enough to keep the chrome finisher from popping off. I was able to get part way round clamping as I went, but it pops off wherever I remove a clamp. Beginning to wonder if the durometer of my aftermarket seal is not correct.

Submitted by mr.jwhey@rocke… on Sat, 01/14/2012 - 08:57

I'm on the hatch window. Yet to tackle the windscreen.

The old seal was lipped on both edges along the top of the windscreen but along the bottom only the glass side was lipped. The screen was repaced at some point so it may have been done incorrectly. Seems like access to the bottom edge would be a problem.

The hatch seal glass side lips over easily, but the body side of the chrome finsher, which has more of a rolled edge, traps and tears the seal. Also lipping it up seems to realease the locking rubber, allowing it to spring up pushing the finisher up with it. Glueing the finisher down first with a narrow center bead of adhesive as it said in the manual made it impossible to release the outer lip.

Peter; Are u saying I should lip the outer edge all around first, gluing the corners, and then do the inner? Would clamping it as I progress keep the locking rubber from pushing it up until I lip the inner edge?

Thank you both for the encouraging words- which I definitely needed in order to attempt this again today.

Jay B.

Submitted by NE40-48370 on Sat, 01/14/2012 - 03:12

Are you talking about windscreen or back window?

If you don't fit the chrome trim fully into the seal - which means under the two lips provided for the purpose - you will lose the trim some day. Maybe at high speed where you can't go back and recover it until it has been scratched or run over by traffic.

First of all 'massage' the trim, if necessary ,so that it sits as flat on the seal all the way around to stop it wanting to spring out. Usually easy enough compared to the trim I just fitted on my Mk2 which has more complex curves. Then it's a case of working it under the second lip - the first is usually easy as you can just slide/push the trim under one of them. I would advise get tting your easy side in under the body side lip. That way, any slips with your blade or screwdriver or spatula etc will happen onto the glass not the paintwork. An old credit card can be handy if you round off the edges. Sometimes a dab of trim adhesive is used, especially at corners or near the ends, but it shouldn't be needed except under the joining clip maybe (if it's the rear trim). If the fit is nice and flush and you just want help with the lips, then I guess a little soapy water will help, as it does with many rubber parts. The A pillar covers do usually require some adhesive to hold them flush, although they are screwed to the body for security.

Someone more expert may have better tips - this isn't my favourite job. The multi-piece trims on E-type windscreens are easier than some though.