i backed my car to my neighbors for christmas party on a friday , sunday morning i pulled it back across the street and just as i put it in park to shut it down , got a mil and restricted message . shut it down anyway . next day ,would crank but not start . checked codes and get a p1230, p1671 and a u 1135 . checked the relays ,are good cause both pumps working , but what is the 1135 u code for ? cannot clear codes and still won't start .
anybody? maybe steve? thanks muchly

Submitted by coastal.watch@… on Sun, 02/26/2012 - 03:08

steve
just wondering how you were doing ,it' been real airconditioning weather here in the keys.
just to let you know , all of this testing and diagnostic work has finally panned out . ther were a few more glitches ,and the car stalled one day thank god i was within a block from the house . could not get it to start for ever it seemed , but after checking the relays and circuits , i decided to bybass the wiring alltogether and found that both fuel pumps took a dive .apparently the main pump died and the secondary would not keep up with demand .anyway neither is running directly off the battery ,so here comes out the tank ,and it is not the real whore of a job that a lot of people seem to describe .i will let you know the outcome and all very soon .i'm just about dead sure this is the culprit as the pumps are 12 years old now .wish me luck and talk to you soon .thanks very much
chris callahan
83 MB 280sl
2000 brg xjr

Submitted by stevejag@sbcgl… on Mon, 01/23/2012 - 08:18

Well, that confirms what I was saying, in that the "P" not lighting was the first order of business. Rather than the shifter out of adjustment, it must have been a loss of power to the linear switch on the side of the shifter. I'm pretty sure there is a single fuse in the LH Heelboard box that supplies the linear switch, the "PRNDL" module AND the TCM indirectly. All that would inhibit fueling. The next suggestion would have been checking powers and grounds at the shifter. So, good job!

BTW..... Yes we got snow; thankfully it was just a couple of inches. There was some ice with it though, that was a b**ch!

Cheers,

Submitted by coastal.watch@… on Sun, 01/22/2012 - 15:32

steve:
well i spent all of saturday removing the console from the car ,which is very easy by the way ,and checked all the connectors on the trans mission which are completely different than the ones on the factory jtis disc .the tests i could do were purely mechanical ( switches , etc.) and then sprayed them all with deoxit ,a product from caig that is a must in florida on electrical connections. i had the console back in about an hour after dark .would still crank and not start in P and only click in neutral. this morning i checked the battery voltage ,@12.1 so i put the charger on and decided to check some fuses . i got to the left heelboard fuse box and on the top row , second from the outboard side , i found a 10 amp fuse blown .LOW and BEHOLD !, after i changed this fuse ,witch i still don't know what circuit it protects ,the car starts and runs but i will have to let it recalibrate every thing to my driving habits for a little while . trust me there will be no corrosion on the connectors EVER as i learned about my last 1987 xj6 lucas connectors , but i still dont know what this fuse is for . as helpful as the jtis disc is ,it still doesn't jive with a lot of the systems on this car .
i really don't want to sound like an old cranky dude ,but at the same time i colud use some healthy feedback on this problem since we started this thread .
i must say thank you so very much for getting back to me so quickly on this . i will be putting together my notes and hopefully this will be available information for similar problems in the future .
guys ,it's time for football so again ,
thanks muchly
chris callahan

1983 mercedes 280 sl
2000 xjr BRITISH RACING GREEN

Submitted by coastal.watch@… on Fri, 01/20/2012 - 22:36

you didn't mention @ any snow so it must be cool . yes it is my next step and i did find a lot more on the jtis disc concerning this project . i did try starting in neutral : again no dice , but i will be doing the electrical tests in the morning as i found a digital multi meter . i love pulling stuff apart and refitting it . later

chris callahan

Submitted by stevejag@sbcgl… on Fri, 01/20/2012 - 21:29

Well the "P" that won't light up should be the first order of business, that's why it won't start. I would get the veneer off and the console out so you can address the adjustment and condition of the linear gearbox switch [transmission control switch in some documentation].

Did you try starting in Neutral??

Submitted by coastal.watch@… on Fri, 01/20/2012 - 19:28

hey steve!
hope you didn't get all the snow they got today !well, it's after twilite and there is no lite on the P when the key is turned on .i went ahead ahead and disconnected the battery as you said and also did the scan as well , came up with another code P 1517 so there is definitely no data to the ecm for the start /crank
i have a jtis disc which i hate , but i won't be doing much else this weekend , so i'll do some tests according to the electrical diagrams . do i have to have a digital meter & not analogue ? navigating this disc to find what i need to do this would be so much easier if the sro #'s were put in some sensical order .
ok , i tried also to clear the codes again ,but get a message that they will not respond or the key needs to cycle . i'll try to run down my transmission problems first though . i do get a healthy crank and george said to try the crankshaft sensor as well . i will forego the security system till i've done these first , and will stay in touch with you . i am documenting every step so we have a good procedure , at least that's my hope
thanks muchly!
chris

Submitted by stevejag@sbcgl… on Fri, 01/20/2012 - 12:11

Edited on 2012-01-20 12:15:53

Edited on 2012-01-20 12:14:16

That's better, Chris!

I'm not privy to everything you have done since this occurred, but I think it may be possible you set the fuel pump faults during your original testing. Those WILL be set if the key is on and a fuel pump relay is removed, every time. The U1135 may or may not be pertinent.
First I would pay attention to the "P" on the shifter when you turn the ignition on. Does it light up or not. If it doesn't, you may have a shift select cable that needs adjustment or a failure of a microswitch on the shifter assembly. You could try and see if pressing the brake and moving the shifter to Neutral will allow the car to start.
Second, since you have the Auto Enginuity, I would disconnect the battery for several minutes, reconnect and clear all the stored codes. Then make a few attempts to start the car. Then recheck the system for fault codes to see if anything reset.
If you have a remote, be sure to lock the car with the remote, wait a few seconds, and then unlock the car. I want you to do that to make sure the security system is not in fueling interrupt. If some weird circumstance occurred, the system may think it's been violated and shut down the fuel system. That's really rare, but we need to rule that out.

See if that get's you anywhere. Good luck!

Submitted by coastal.watch@… on Thu, 01/19/2012 - 19:12

sorry guys my oversite !
yes it's 2000 my xjr , vin f 00481 . i used auto engenuity to read the codes .i also tried the valet key again , but no dice ! still cranks but no signal to relays and apparently the driver rear door module doesnt know about the ignition data ,so i'm stumped here .course a watchmaker is no jag mechanic much , help !!

2000 xjr nice
1983 mercedes 280 sl grey market

Submitted by SE98-32482CJ on Thu, 01/19/2012 - 18:19

Steve LOL I seeked him on you! I could not help and could not find the U1135 code. He tried the valet key so the chip is not the answer. I was left with one of the crank sensors. hope you can help! He said the fuel pump relays are working and he has pressure at the rail when energized. I heard the car turn over (on the phone) but no fire. IIRR the car is a 2000 XJR.