I will deff order the manual. :) haha.

I just pulled the #1 and #6 plugs and the #1 has a little oil on it and the #6 is covered in carbon. Im planning on changing them out but had a question about what plugs to get. Currently I have Champion N5C plugs in there but from what I have read they are very cold plugs that don't produce much spark. Are the N5C plugs the correct plugs to be running in this car?

Can you let me know what plugs I need to get. Do I need to order them or can I pick them up at an Advanced or Auto Zone? I know I called Advanced and they had a diff plug in their system but I don't trust them as far as I can throw them.

George... what do you think.

I know Im going to have to sent you a gift basket after all of this. :)

Thank you.

Submitted by NE48-24099 on Mon, 02/13/2012 - 14:17

Thomas, that's an interesting insight into the Champion bowtie spark plug boot. When I changed all my spark plug wires to solid copper, in my 120's, 140, 150, MkII's, I gave them all RN12YC plugs. But then again, they all came with solid wire. I will remember that point when I do my E type. I wounder if there will be any detrimental effect with the double resistance?

Submitted by coventryclassi… on Mon, 02/13/2012 - 12:05

Blake,

If you are running the Champion bowtie spark plug boot it also has a resister in the boot. The R plug will give you double resister, that is why Dick is running the N12YC NOT the RN12YC.

Submitted by b8_agnew@hotmail.com on Sun, 02/12/2012 - 09:53

Alright, I got it figured out. The difference between the N12YC and the RN12YC is that the N12YC plugs are being fazed out and are note being used anymore for auto application. The RN12YC plug have taken their place and have a resister component to them, the only difference is the "R" prevents any possible feedback you may get through the radio all other aspects of the plug are the same.

Submitted by b8_agnew@hotmail.com on Sun, 02/12/2012 - 07:54

Dick and Phillip.

Thank you so much for your input this matter. I really appreciate it. I just want to make sure that I take all the proper steps and precautions to prevent any possible damage due to mis-knowledge or negligence on my part.

Submitted by NE48-24099 on Sat, 02/11/2012 - 22:06

Blake, I agree with Dick that N12YC is the plug to use. It is a hotter plug, and may not last as long, however they will run cleaner since we are not driving the engine hard. I have also used RN12YC.
In order to make certain I do not get dirt into the cylinders while removing plugs, I back the plugs out a few turns and then blow out the dirt with my air hose. When installing the new plugs, you may wish to also apply anti-sieze compound to the thread. Reinspect them after 500 miles to see if there is any change in #1, #6.

Submitted by rcmaury@bellso… on Sat, 02/11/2012 - 20:22

N12YC plugs are not hard ot get. We carry them as does NAPA and many others. Oil on the plug is an issue. It should not be there. Additives rarely work for oil consumption and poor ring sealing. Driving might help.

Submitted by b8_agnew@hotmail.com on Sat, 02/11/2012 - 17:37

Dick,

Thank you for getting back to me. It seem finding the proper plug is challenging.
The car currently has the N5C plugs and is what SNG Barrat has listed as plugs for the E-Type 4.2 and Welsh has the N-11-YC plugs listed...

I went to the auto store and they said the N12YC plugs were discontinued. I will try to find them online and order them.

Do you know of a way to clean out around the plug holes in the engine with out getting crap down in there. There is a lot of build up under the plug.

Also should I worry about the oil on the #6 plug. The #1 had a lot of carbon build up but that seems pretty reasonable for a car that was not driven... I think. Would you recommend ever using a LUCAS additive to prevent oil bypassing that piston ring? Or am I reading too much into this?

Submitted by rcmaury@bellso… on Sat, 02/11/2012 - 16:08

Champion N12YC is the proper plug. It replaces the NY11 reverenced in the shop manual. N5C is such a cold plug, I am surprised your car even runs on them. It is to cold for my race car. Stick with Champions though. Most auto supply houses carry them. Don't let them substitute another brand that will maybe work. Champions don't cost any more so why substitute?