Leak from Engine - Not sure from where - Pic attached.

Peter
You are correct that Richards' book is just drawings and associated parts lists. one of the beautiful things about it is that it lists all the nuts, bolts and washers that go with the parts on the diagram. further he includes a supplement on a disc that allows you to break down the part number of some (but not all) of the fasteners. the book is invaluable in seeing what is supposed to be where and how it goes together. The book has been a godsend for what I am doing with my specific car, which is a restoration project, but would not be of much help in "how" to do a specific procedure.

That having been said when I bought mine, I also bought several other "shop/ Maintenance" type manuals, one of them being the Haynes manual and the Owners Workshop Manual. these provide detailed instructions one how to do specific maintenance and repair procedures. If It was me I would buy them all

Blake, I'm cutting you slack because you're from NC like my wife and just up the road from Wilmington where my stepson lives. Glad you have now seen that the 'Give a man a fish...' thing is coming true, and you are preparing to buy a rod and line to fish for your own basic information.

Good for you that having seemingly inherited custody of the car you are working your way to keeping it and not just selling up. We are here to help but you have to show willing and not ask every tiny spec item when it (and a hundred others) is waiting to be read in the literature - especially if you have some of it and you just want to keep it clean! Maybe photocopy it and use that?

You've been given the torque specs but you just know there are going to be many many other facts and figures besides oil capacity and head torque. So the investment in a book is worthwhile. It's just your bad luck that you and I have the model that Jaguar didn't publish their own book for. Richard Liggitt needs to be recompensed for the major time he put into filling the literature gap, and that equates to high unit cost . I hope there is more to it than a parts book though, because you need other advice besides parts numbers and illustrations. Maybe someone here can confirm, because if it's only an illustrated parts thing you are gonig to need more literature. :-(

However, your engine and most of the mechanical stuff is the same as other Es so you can use the Haynes or Bentley / Jaguar reprints before turnnig another wrench. Hopefully your leak will stay sealed (and not just because your coolant is now low!). If not , te trick is to put a dab of sealant either side of each washer ,to prevent coolant creeping out along the studs on later cars. You also need to be sure your coolant is fresh enough to still have corrosion inhibitors in the right strength to stop the stud-to-head corrosion that affects these cars. If it was restored not too long ago the studs are hopefully free and you 'll just need to keep an eye on coolant maintenance to make sure they stay that way.

I saw the steel bevelled washer under the dome nut so knew you were fine on that score. Depending how many nuts you undid and what order etc. you will probably get away with no head gasket problems. Good luck wit t he car. They are not hard to keep in good condition and you are starting from a good base it seems. Just immerse yourself in the learning process and you will answer far more of your own questions. Which means we can help willingly with the tricky stuff and not feel like we are being taken for a ride. Hint- don't ask what tyre pressures you should use, OK? :-)

Cheers
Pete

Phillip,

I think it was the angle of the picture. Both washers are there.
I have torqued all nuts as recommended in the Service manual in the order they state. I just ran the car to temp and let it idle for a good bit in the garage and the leak has stopped. Im getting no smoke from the exhaust, so I might have dodged that bullet. Only time and a little road time will tell.

Yes that is correct. It is $165 plus $7.95 shipping for MEMBERS. Non members pay $195 which means you can order it directly from XKE books for the same price (plus a bit more S&H). Oddly enough Blake membership in JCNA for MALs (members at large) is $30 and if part of a club (Such as the NC club) it is $22. So you got me again--prices are structured to encourage membership and to benefit members. Selling to non members must be carefully monitored as we are a 501c7 club and as such non member sales are "bad money". So simply put order it from where you wish--with the JCNA membership price you also receive a bi monthly club magazine. With the other you get--well just the book.

No, no, no, Blake, look carefully. There is no washer under the dome nut! If you compare them, there are 2 washers on the right nut and only one on the left nut. Enjoy!

WTG George

George, I can't thank you and the rest of the crew enough for being patient with me during this period. I plan on taking the car to a proper mechanic but want to make sure it was running the best it can before taking it up there. If I need to replace the head gasket, so be it, it was my own mistake. I know I am not a mechanic and down play it off like I am. I do know how to do a lot but not all. This car past down to me I am trying my best to keep the car going as my father would want it to. Im doing my best with what I have.

I will plan to order the manual this week. Please confirm this is the one you speak so highly of:

B-J53RL Jaguar E-Type ILLUSTRATED parts Catalog Series 2 1969-1971

Sorry for all the trouble guys and I do appreciate the information that has been past along. In no way to I feel entitled in the help that I ask for or receive. I like to check with the people who know best and know these cars inside and out as the service manual I have can get very confusing bouncing back and forth between the 3.8 and 4.2 information.

Thank you again everyone.

Blake evidently it is not a learning process. This will be my last post on the subject. I have given you the torque. I have told you where to find it in your shop manual. I have cautioned you to find out the torque on the other bolts. It has been pointed out that you have left off a washer which will result in you NEVER getting the torque correct. Part of "Learning" is listening and reading. You have been given excellent information and advise (mine aside) yet you continue to approach this like you are entitled or something. We are all here to help but I refuse to help someone who will not help themselves. So either you are jerking our collective chains or you need to heed William's advice and "find" a mechanic. Best of luck. Should you wish to discuss this you can call the tech line.

Edited on 2012-02-13 6:57:19

Look again guys. The washer is under there. Im glad I can be a good source of humor.

Phillip you are right! So reading on torque wrench is 54 ft lbs. Actual torque on head is Zero.

This thread is also cracking me up! Take a look at the picture again. The washer is missing under the left dome nut.

George, This whole conversation is cracking me up. This is one of the most enjoyable threads I have read lately. I'm anxious to see how it all plays out. :-)

George, This whole conversation is cracking me up. This is one of the most enjoyable threads I have read lately. I'm anxious to see how it all plays out. :-)

There is also a proper sequence of torquing the head down. My bet says that you may very well be replacing the head gasket in order to stop the leak. Good thing is that you spotted the leak externally. If it is internal into your pistons and oil you will be in deeper trouble.

It should be 54 but you now need to determine the other nuts torque. If you torque to 54 and someone else who did not check had them at 60 there will be an issue. So take your torque wrench and find out what the others are! There is no manual for that as the engineers could not visualize this situation. BTW torque specs are in the ENgine section of the srevice manual!

I do indeed have a torque wrench in my garage. Can you please provide the proper torque specs for the lifting bracket bolts. Is it 58 lbs ft? It is a learning process right?

Thank you.

Blake, Did you put the brackets back on?? If not my guess is the nuts are bottoming out and therefore not tightening up enough. Just a thought.

William you are cracking me up. On a perfectly restored car one could look at the perfect handbook and find out that a socket and handle to remove the spark plugs was provided with the car and it can be found in the spare tire well. But that would require some reading and handling of the manual. If the car is a short stud engine (should be if a 69) then a retorque should handle it but the existance of a torque wrench in a garage that does not have a spark plug socket is in grave doubt. I will just watch this unfolding story from this point forward.

First, find a mechanic who,can help you work on the car & reread the advice given to you so far! Blake, why on earth did you take off those Lifting brackets "cross Braces" they are held down by the cylinder head studs and rarely have to be removed!! You now have to torque them down and hope you don't have a bad stud. They should be around 58 Lbs ft