Edited on 2012-05-27 7:49:45
Edited on 2012-05-27 7:48:47
Edited on 2012-05-27 7:48:14
Edited on 2012-05-27 7:47:34
Are there illustrations / pics / posts showing the tricks to master this "pageantry"...specifically the backing "nuts" the screws go into? I've looked at the E-type Service / Parts Manuals, Vendor Parts Catalog and surfed sites, but was unable to find much clarity on the subject. (...I'd settle for the correct swear-words to use during this process). Thanks in advance for any assistance!
Submitted by silverarrowgar… on Sun, 06/03/2012 - 07:13
Submitted by richard@my64et… on Sun, 05/27/2012 - 18:16
S1 E-Type Headlamp Chrome Trim Screws & Nuts - Removal / Replace
I presume that you are aware that the "nuts" are actually small flat pieces of stock that are drilled and tapped and held by a small cage. I found it very helpful to use an 8-32 (I believe) tap and be sure that each one was clean and the screws would easily go in and out. Then, it's helpful to put regular nut on and with your bench grinder, put a slight point on the screws. After that you can remove the nut and it will effectively straighten the threads out. Be sure to check them again with the captive nuts. The rubber gasket can be an aggravation and it appears that there are several different styles depending on where it is bought. I can't recommend one in particular, but I had to somewhat modify the location of the screw holes with a pair of scissors or a razor knife. I installed the gasket on the glass using some windshield sealer... not sure I'd recommend that, it's very slick and messy, and probably unnecessary. The last step... line it up, get one of the screws started and work your way around the perimeter starting the rest of the screws before tightening any of them. You will probably need to use an awl or something small and pointed to help line up the holes. It's not easy, but it CAN be done. Now if all of the captive nuts and cages are gone, then you have a bigger problem. I had one missing and managed to fabricate one and using some JB Weld, I set it in place long enough to get a screw in it, after than it won't come loose. Good luck, hope this helps.
Submitted by silverarrowgar… on Sun, 05/27/2012 - 12:06
S1 E-Type Headlamp Chrome Trim Screws & Nuts - Removal / Replace
Thanks for your quick and detailed response, Richard. Will re-approach the challenge this afternoon and let you know how things turned out. All the best - Mark
Submitted by richard@my64et… on Sun, 05/27/2012 - 10:26
S1 E-Type Headlamp Chrome Trim Screws & Nuts - Removal / Replace
I presume that you are aware that the "nuts" are actually small flat pieces of stock that are drilled and tapped and held by a small cage. I found it very helpful to use an 8-32 (I believe) tap and be sure that each one was clean and the screws would easily go in and out. Then, it's helpful to put regular nut on and with your bench grinder, put a slight point on the screws. After that you can remove the nut and it will effectively straighten the threads out. Be sure to check them again with the captive nuts. The rubber gasket can be an aggravation and it appears that there are several different styles depending on where it is bought. I can't recommend one in particular, but I had to somewhat modify the location of the screw holes with a pair of scissors or a razor knife. I installed the gasket on the glass using some windshield sealer... not sure I'd recommend that, it's very slick and messy, and probably unnecessary. The last step... line it up, get one of the screws started and work your way around the perimeter starting the rest of the screws before tightening any of them. You will probably need to use an awl or something small and pointed to help line up the holes. It's not easy, but it CAN be done. Now if all of the captive nuts and cages are gone, then you have a bigger problem. I had one missing and managed to fabricate one and using some JB Weld, I set it in place long enough to get a screw in it, after than it won't come loose. Good luck, hope this helps.
Submitted by richard@my64et… on Sun, 05/27/2012 - 10:09
S1 E-Type Headlamp Chrome Trim Screws & Nuts - Removal / Replace
I presume that you are aware that the "nuts" are actually small flat pieces of stock that are drilled and tapped and held by a small cage. I found it very helpful to use an 8-32 (I believe) tap and be sure that each one was clean and the screws would easily go in and out. Then, it's helpful to put regular nut on and with your bench grinder, put a slight point on the screws. After that you can remove the nut and it will effectively straighten the threads out. Be sure to check them again with the captive nuts. The rubber gasket can be an aggravation and it appears that there are several different styles depending on where it is bought. I can't recommend one in particular, but I had to somewhat modify the location of the screw holes with a pair of scissors or a razor knife. I installed the gasket on the glass using some windshield sealer... not sure I'd recommend that, it's very slick and messy, and probably unnecessary. The last step... line it up, get one of the screws started and work your way around the perimeter starting the rest of the screws before tightening any of them. You will probably need to use an awl or something small and pointed to help line up the holes. It's not easy, but it CAN be done. Now if all of the captive nuts and cages are gone, then you have a bigger problem. I had one missing and managed to fabricate one and using some JB Weld, I set it in place long enough to get a screw in it, after than it won't come loose. Good luck, hope this helps.
Thanks again, Richard, for your perspective. Finished the project and your suggestions were very helpful. The E-Type is an aluring car with much recognition as a milestone vehicle on many levels. But as I was tackling the challenge of a seemingly simple head lamp issue, I couldn't help but think that this car was the CTS-V Coupe of the 1960's. Anyone yurning for the "golden days" of performance and quality cars just needs to look around...we're living in it today. All the best - Mark