I found that in order to remove the existing clutch slave cylinder it was necessary to wedge the engine assembly about one-eighth of an inch further toward the driver's side before the old cylinder would clear the mounting studs. Having prevously removed the bolt from the tab on the next line anchor point above the cylinder,I was then able to disconnect the ridgid line from the cylinder input. Since that line input connection is not accessable once the cylinder is back in place it must be tightened in advance of remounting. Has anyone come up with a method of determing the proper orientation of that line mounting tab prior to reinstalling the cyclinder or is it a lenghty and difficult trial and error method? Tom

Submitted by tvtom@sbcglobal.net on Thu, 08/09/2012 - 22:08

Thanks, Bill. I didn't recall that they were all that much longer than necessary but I can measure them. That joint with the flex isn't very convenient either but I'll look into it. One carburetter was leaking fuel so heavily I couldn't drive it down for an engine cleaning prior to disassembly so I spent most of today cleaning parts. :-( 100 plus degrees here as almost everywhere else,
Tom

Submitted by redbil@aol.com on Thu, 08/09/2012 - 21:41

I found that the mounting studs were almost a 1/4" longer than needed, so I cut them. Reassembly was much easier. As for the input line, you also disconnect it at the other end (where it mates with the flex pipe). Then you can tighten the first end positioned as best you can and manhandle the other end where access is easier. Hope that helps.

Submitted by MikeEck@optonl… on Thu, 08/09/2012 - 12:30

Hi Billy,

In an effort to make the task of removing the slave cylinder less difficult next time I unscrewed those studs and replaced them with bolts. That trick may present you with a solution to your problem. I know, screwing into aluminum shouldn't be done very often, but when do you ever expect to remove it again?