I am restoring a 1970 E-type. Would you recamend the Wilwood front end calipers? Thank you. Edward

Submitted by NE23-54945 on Sat, 05/04/2013 - 21:25

Agreed, my 70 Coupe which I drive 10 thousand mlies a years started with great series 2 brakes. I did upgrade to front vented rotors with the spacers for the calipers using stock pads....and calipers....
Maybe it was grandturismo or coventry that sold me the conversion.It was 10 years ago +
They stop on the dime with NO cold sqealing like other RACING set ups...
Im driving from New York to the Indy 500 to florida and back up to P.a for import Carlisle YES the brakes are that good...
Good Luck
GTJOEY1314

Submitted by SE98-32482CJ on Thu, 03/14/2013 - 05:05

Bill you should change both front and rear. You will need a series 2 carrier as the calipers will not bolt on to your 1968 ones. Please read Peter Crespins comments again--I could not agree more.

Submitted by cebotech1@yahoo.com on Wed, 03/13/2013 - 13:22

I have been following this thread with interest. I am about to start the second restoration of my 68 FHC that I have owned for 32 years. I have not considered the upgrade to Wilwood brakes, but I have been thinking of upgrading to the Series II brakes (which I have already aquired). Has anyone done this already? the idea behind this upgrade is to achieve more reliability and performance. Any comments and suggestions are welcome.

Submitted by NW61-43367CJ on Tue, 03/12/2013 - 23:14

Hi Ed
I vintaged raced an '65 E Type for a dozen years and compete with my '68 in JCNA and local non JCNA slaloms. I've been involved in many brake modifications over the years to E's. I'm often asked questions about brake mods. Generally my advise is that unless you plan to actually race the car, or participate in high speed multi lap track days, on a race track, you should stick with stock brakes. A properly maintained stock setup will give you all the stopping power you need. (I actually think that any braking problems the E had has more to do with tires the thickness of pie plates. - the ca'rs just to powerful for them.) It will not however permit track use as the stock system is not able to dissapate enought heat to go more than two laps at best. Similarily a long high speed slalom will tax the brakes to the limit - thou they will not fade enought to be unworkable.
In considering changes you should note the following. Jaguar compensates for the difference in braking force to the front and rear wheels by using differnt piston sizes back to front. Smaller in back leads to less brake force applied there. If the rears lock up before the fronts you'll be going backwards, and quickly, in a panic stop. So you have to be aware of this ratio. Too big front pistons and the rears aren't working hard enough. Secondly the master cylinder system is designed to move a certain amount of fluid to the calipers on each push. If your new front brakes have larger pistons (total area) than stock they will need more fluid. The calipers get this by a longer pedal stroke - sometimes to the floor and beyond - not good. Finally if you are trying to avoid the heat issue you must go to ventilated rotors. They are more important than the calipers.
You might consider Coopercraft in the UK for new brakes designed specifically for the E Type. You get a complete tested system, including ventilated rotors if you wish, for much the same price as it will cost you to convert to Wilwoods -taking all costs into consideration. Wilwoods are great - I used them on my race car, but they are aluminum and have pistons that have no sealing boots.

Submitted by NE40-48370 on Sun, 03/10/2013 - 21:55

Coming late but glad everyone is giving sensible advice. The 3 pots are fine. If you had dead S1 breaks and rusted calipers beyong DIY refurb then I could agree to aftermarket brakes for cost and unsprung weight readons but an S2 or S3 has good brakes as standard and in any case once you can lock the wheels there is no better retardation to be had without a change of wheels/tyres.

Pete

Submitted by mr.jwhey@rocke… on Sun, 03/10/2013 - 19:23

George is right- unless you plan to run oversize rubber in front, the car's not going to stop any quicker on the Wilwoods. If you plan on going racing get the Wilwoods for high temp performance.

Submitted by Bfastr@cox.net on Sun, 03/10/2013 - 17:42

I just rebuilt my entire S2 braking system. I will admit I looked long and hard at the wilwoods. But in the end I decided the money it would take could be better spent elsewhere.

rebuilding the calipers is not hard, its a dirty job, but thats what rubber gloves are for.
Its a whole lot less expensive to rebuild your own. I looked at sending them out and at that point thought the cost difference isnt that bad between paying to get them re-built or buying wilwoods. maybe thats where you are. but if you have the skill to fix things then the brakes will be easy for you. even buying all the pistons, misc parts and seals I still came out way ahead of a set of new calipers.

In the end I am glad I did my own, I will tell you they seem pretty darn adequate to me.
the only issue I had was my choice of brake pads. I went cheap on the first set and they squealed like a banshee. So I bought a better set, mid grade, I didnt go for green stuff or anything crazy, but now they are as quiet as can be.

truthfully my car is not a race car, I use it to cruise, but I have complete confidence in my brakes. maybe even more so because I did them myself and I know they were done right.

Submitted by SE98-32482CJ on Sun, 03/10/2013 - 17:12

If you are restoring your car use the 3 pot Girling calipers. If you are wanting to spend $$$ then get the Wilwood. You will not be able to tell the difference unless you are going to race the car-and I do mean race not just hard driving. The 3 pot Girling are more than up for almost any situation.