My e-type is a series 1 1/5 coupe 4.2 US delivery.

My number six fuse has the twin fans are wired here.

I noticed that the fuse was partially black one end from the heat and I replaced the fuse. The fuse fitted was not tight because the heat had effected the metal fitting. Also the fuse box had been partly melted at the fuse six point. The fans were still working.

I have now replaced the fuse box.

On hot days when driving in the city, my ignition switch gets very hot which I do check by touching it.

On a country trip on a hot day, my ignition switch did not get hot, no doubt because of the good air flow and reduced need for the fans!

I am concerned about driving on hot days and catching fire or burning out the wiring!

I would appreciate your suggested fixes to reduce my hot wiring problem.

Submitted by mfrank@westnet.com on Sun, 04/07/2013 - 00:28

Lucas fuses are spec'd on maximum current, American fuses are spec'd on continuous current. If this is a 30A circuit, a 15 or 20A American fuse is more than enough. This isn't the problem, but you should probably be blowing fuses rather than burning fuse holders.

Check the connections, of course. But if that doesn't solve the problem, then you may have to open the fan motors and clean the commutators.

Submitted by redbil@aol.com on Sat, 04/06/2013 - 21:55

John,

I agree with Chris that high resistance contacts carrying high current can get hot. If you have a volt meter, checking for that is straightforward. If you lose more than a volt or so between the battery and the load (fans for instance) you need further action.

Because you have a heat rise at two different locations, the ignition switch and fuse 6, I think that high current is also a likely suspect. If the wiring is intact, the only heavy loads on fuse 6 are the cooling fans and the heater fan. If my memory has not failed, the cooling fans draw about 12 amps total when working properly but that current can increase significantly if they are not spinning at normal speed because of dirt or worn bushings. Try turning the fans by hand, they should spin freely. You can also listen to them to check that they sound identical. Short the otter switch on the radiator and the fans will run with the engine stopped but with the ignition on. For this, lift one coil lead to save the points and coil. Good luck.

Bill Braun

Submitted by gambleka@bv.com on Sat, 04/06/2013 - 19:09

The temperature of electrical circuit components are a product of the resistance and the current flow squared, The heat generating at swithces and fuse blocks generatlly increase as the resistance increases due to loose contacts or corrsoion. I would clean up the contact points at the switchs and fuse block and try to protect from future corrosion. Dielectric grease at contact points is often a good idea. If you can't get at the switch contact points, might be a good time to get a spare or go ahead and replace in the garage rather than out on othe road...