After a 3 yr and 4 month restoration of my 69 OTS, I had planned to start it for the first time today.

Unfortunately, repairing a few fuel leaks, making sure that the wiring to the distributor, coil, etc. were all correct.

Checked with timing light that I was close to TDC as possible without starting the engine, it just wouldn't start. Not even a misfire, nothing.

I checked, fuel getting to the carbs, check
Using a timing light, on # 6 piston, spark present, check

Turned ignition on a min or 2, to make sure fuel was getting thru to the carbs, then engaged the starter, did this a number of times, but no start.

Couple of things I noticed.
1. there is an Intermittent spark at #6 spark plug. The used a couple of timing lights to check this and it seems that the spark is intermittent. Further, the coil seems to get quite warm, is this normal?

2. the rear fuel pump, has the normal pumping sounds but stops after a min or so.

I assume that is this normal behaviour when the engine does not start and the pressure in the line gets high enough. Please confirm this.

The other question I have is to start the engine, the timing should be set at the 0 degree mark on the crank shaft pulley. This what I did, am I correct?

Really appreciate any expertise that can be shared with me.

Submitted by mr.jwhey@rocke… on Sun, 05/26/2013 - 15:43

Marco,
Did you have the engine apart during resto? Did it run before? I agree with Bernie- make sure the plug wiring order is correct. Check adjustment of the choke cable/linkages. Engine apart introduces possibility that something is off by 360deg - cam timing? distributor?

Submitted by salzgreen@gmail.com on Sun, 05/26/2013 - 09:06

I would pull all plugs out, ground them on the head and have someone turn the ignition to see if I had spark on all...then, (I hate to be the master of the obvious, but re-check the firing order)

Gas and spark...all you need...unless you have timing issues..

Also, maybe the ignition wires dried out...

Submitted by m.giuliani@sym… on Sat, 05/18/2013 - 22:32

Thanks Robert, I will check the static timing again.
Appreciate your comments about the pump, I thought so but not owning an E type before, I could only assume the reason why the pump stops pumping.
I am going to replace the points and condenser to make sure and go from there.

Submitted by arnold@ntplx.net on Sat, 05/18/2013 - 21:36

My Owners Workshop Manual advises that the emission control engines use 5 degrees before top dead center for static timing.
My ignition coil runs warm, but not hot.
SU fuel pumps clicks away while filling the float bowls, slows down, then stops clicking once the float bowls are filled.
I have been left standing beside a no-start car by a brand new ignition rotor which was leaking the high voltage to the distributor shaft, killing the spark plugs. Fixed this by swapping in an old rotor and the engine fired right up.
I had a failure to start properly (would only cough and sputter) due to a failed condenser. Fixed this one by swapping in an old condenser.
I had refreshed my distributor with new points, condenser, rotor and cap. The new rotor failed within several hours and the condenser failed within a few days.