ETYPE STAINLESS HEADERS FOR 4.2

Thanks everyone, My leaks come from miles of driving, its not bad , I just thought a new look and less joints.
I nowadays love QUIET rides.....I love the purr of the jag but really have NO patience for louder hot rod noise.
So looks like the wonderful group here has pulled through again.
Im not knocking the header but Im sticking with the cast manifold.
Hopefully the day comes we can post pics alot easier , I would be posting alot of great shots.....
Thanks again my etype friends............
Who's in for NEW YORK TO PEBBLE BEACH BACK TO NEW YORK next year.........
Etype all the way.
GTJOEY1314

The bottom line is, what is wrong with the originals, they should not leak, in fact unless they are fitted badly or bolts are missing etc, they do not leak. Furthermore in 50 years with these cars I have never heard of pin hole leaks .

Let me give you a few reasons not to do this:

1) Stainless joints are harder to seal than mild steel. You may or may not have less leakage.
2) You will have significantly MORE under bonnet heat
3) You have significantly MORE noise
4) They will not remain bright and shiny for very long. The best you can hope for is deep blue over time.
5) You will not realize a gain in performance unless you tune your engine appropriately, and I don't mean change the plugs and points.
6) Depending on how your car is equipped, you may have to fabricate heat shields to protect brake and clutch bottles, A/C equipment and so forth
7) Once you spend the considerable amount of money involved, you will be committed for life. Stainless is forever.

I always recommend Walker Acoutiseal be used on stainless joints. You can use this stuff on your cast iron and steel joints as well, if you have persistent leakage. it's important to use the correct brass nuts on the manifold studs, as these will expand to compensate for the heat.

Terry, Thank you very much. I feel you helped me out alot. Im not racing just riding and traveling.
I too have heard of mid range torque loss.
If the pipes do not save weight, and Im in new york traffic, Im not sure of the advantage, other then the fit and less joints for leaking.
Lastly , what about the heat issue, my bonnet stays cool, as I put a series 3 xj6 manifold cover to push all the heat down..........
I dont want to wrap pipes for a driver it would look to harsh.
Thanks again for all the help.
GTJOEY1314

Hi Joey
I've got a set of XK's headers on my '68 E Type. Installed them about 3 years ago. They are very well made, and fit exactly. They are of quite heavy construction, the tubes are square shaped where they meet the exhaust ports so good flow results. The down pipes fit exactly to the center muffler. My center muffler is stainless. The down pipes all fitted togeter so well and to the muffler that i didn't need to clamp the tubes for a perfect seal. The expansion from the heat is enough to seal them (The entry tubes to the muffler were not compromised (bent) by earlier clamping. I slalom race my car so I got them for two purposes - first I thought they would be lighter than stock - they are not lighter, and secondly I thought they might increase power. My seat of the pants impression is that there was a reduction in mid range torque from them, which is to be expected (that's what headers do), but I was unable to say if there was an increase in top end power (also expected - headers push the power up the rpm range). You want mid range torque in slalom racing as you are not at top rpm often. I'm planning to switch back to stock this summer. Anyway my impression of the headers is that they are well made -will last you years, and they look good (mine have turned a very attractive blue).

Bernie forgot about your stock manifolds Take them out, put a long ruler on the side that mates to the engine, see if they are flat and not warped, some people have shaved them down, havent had that much luck, yes they crack sometimes to, if so go back to jag heaven, they have them, true and not cracked.
The down pipes and all the rest Ive seen people make staight pipes and all, just watch your gaps and clearences...
Im trying to cut out as many leak joints as possible.
Good Luck.

Bernie, you should have NO problem with jaguar heaven....
My car is going to embark on a 2 year journey , by the time Im done about 25,000 miles....
I always LOVE working on the ETYPE, its a labor of love.
My stock exhaust was redone with the motor lets say 10 years ago, its fine but you always get the little farts here and there.
Just thought the header looks great and would add a dot more h/p and breathe better.
BUT, I have a trick series 3 xj6 manifold cover no hole for cross over since it was a fuel injected 4.2, so all the heat gets directed down, no issue with the a/c or alternator.
But, I get those little goofy leaks around all the joints.
To me it looks like the header is all one piece, and cuts out thos joints under the cast manifold.
Make sense?
Will call to see what the difference really is.
I dont want noise........so we will see....anyone have info , It would be much appreciated.
gtjoey1314

Hey Joey, this is bit of a diversion off your topic...bit I am about to do exhaust on my car...all original style equipment presently...and has about 100k miles...

I have heard of issues relating to original exhaust headers and "pinhole type" leaks...I was planning on cutting pipes (since they are trash anyway) just below the exhaust manifolds and then remove the manifolds and replace gaskets there, before replacing the exhaust...
is there a way to check them out?

your thoughts on this...

and, btw, I will be dropping off my starter core in person to Jag heaven in Stockton....curious about this place...this was the lead from your contact out in LI