I just bought a 1970 SII OTS and there's quite a bit of play in the steering column. Not in the steering but in the column itself. I've been told this is a relatively common issue and there are two bushings which when replaced will correct the issue. XKS Unlimited has put a bearing kit together for this fix and it's on the way.

My question is, does anyone have experience with this condition and bearing swap? Do I need to remove the entire steering column from the car?
Can I replace the bearings by just pulling the steering shaft itself?
Is there anything else I should consider addressing while fixing this?

Thanks!

Submitted by tferrer@gmail.com on Sun, 08/04/2013 - 21:24

Hi Michael,

Yes, I have some contacts to weld but they aren't around the corner. Based on the instructions, I still think they want to press an outer race into the out column. I've attached a picture of the kit components and directions. I have to drive the car to the body shop tomorrow so I wont get to officially pull the column out this until mid week....

Submitted by mfrank@westnet.com on Sat, 08/03/2013 - 22:41

Just to get the terminology consistent. I would describe the bearing as an inner and outer race, between which is a set of caged rollers. It sounds like they only supply the cage and outer race, so you don't have to risk crushing the column by pressing in a new inner race. Not a bad plan.

Play is side to side because the bearings are conical, so it's still worth trying the shim trick. If you need to drill out the lock sleeve, you'll have to weld it back in, do you have access to welding equipment, or someone who can do this for you?

Submitted by tferrer@gmail.com on Sat, 08/03/2013 - 20:55

I received the kit and indeed it has what appears to be two races and two conical brass bushings which ride in the races ,which are supposed to be pressed into the OUTER column. The directions are light on detail but it also appears that the steering lock does in fact, complicate the issue. Directions state that the spot weld holding the lock sleeve on the inner column must be drilled out for removal of the steering lock sleeve. The brass conical bushing can be pressed on the INNER shat then. The sleeve then must be welded back on the shaft in the correct position. This is getting a lot more complicated than I thought but I guess that's part of the discovery process.

Michael and George: Regarding the earlier suggestions to place shims on the inner column. There's no play if I pull or push on the wheel. It's all side to side play..

Submitted by tferrer@gmail.com on Sat, 08/03/2013 - 20:39

Yup, Ive already lost parts there. XK's produced this kit especially for this issue but I'm not sure if that really counts for anything.. As you say, the column is birdcaged so it collapses. I should get the kit today so I will take a look.

Yes, I have a column lock. Does the lock complicate the issue? Not sure about the ignition either. It appears straightforward but I'm a newbie and still well within my honeymoon phase.

Having heard a story or three about the electronics, I'd hate to get something wrong as the car runs beautifully and all the dash lights work (well ALMOST all the lights work...)

Submitted by mfrank@westnet.com on Fri, 08/02/2013 - 20:00

If your car has the horn push on the turn signal, it also has a collapsible column.

I've never worked on a column with the lock, so I'm not sure how much of a complication it is.

Submitted by DavidBarnes71@… on Fri, 08/02/2013 - 19:48

I do not have this problem with my car but while we are on the topic do any of you know if the steering column on a 68 series 1.5 would be the same set up as what you speak of here ? I still struggle some times on how much of a February 1968 car is still series 1 or changed to series 2. I hope to put this in my memory bank if a similar problem ever develops. I remember driving a 66 years ago that had a loose column.

David Barnes
68 E-type FHC

Submitted by tferrer@gmail.com on Fri, 08/02/2013 - 17:35

Yup, Ive already lost parts there. XK's produced this kit especially for this issue but I'm not sure if that really counts for anything.. As you say, the column is birdcaged so it collapses. I should get the kit today so I will take a look.

Yes, I have a column lock. Does the lock complicate the issue? Not sure about the ignition either. It appears straightforward but I'm a newbie and still well within my honeymoon phase.

Having heard a story or three about the electronics, I'd hate to get something wrong as the car runs beautifully and all the dash lights work (well ALMOST all the lights work...)

Submitted by tferrer@gmail.com on Fri, 08/02/2013 - 17:16

Thanks George! I pulled the thin black plastic wrap from the bird cage section of the outer column and inspected the area pretty thoroughly well as the surrounding area. Didn't appear anything was wrong but I'll take another look. I was hoping to not have to remove the entire thing as it looks like the bolts require getting a wrench on both sides of them. The ones closest to the bulkhead look to be problematic. Is it easier if I remove the dash top??

Thanks again for the advice. It's appreciated!

Submitted by mfrank@westnet.com on Fri, 08/02/2013 - 12:54

Removal is all done from inside the car, don't bother with the dash top. There's a universal knuckle at the end of the upper column, undo it. There are two bolts that secure the column to the bottom of the dash, they will come right out and the column will fall. Oh, you should remove the steering wheel and turn signal switch before you start. Do you have a column lock?

Submitted by mfrank@westnet.com on Fri, 08/02/2013 - 12:49

The S2 doesn't use bushings. The way you fix this is to take the column out of the car, and install shim washers at the bottom to take up the endshake. There used to be bearing kits in the market, but they were awful. Even if you found a good set of bearings, it's not clear to me how you could press out the old ones...the column is designed to collapse after all. I hope XK's has something better.

If you take the whole column apart, be very careful with the bearings. The rollers come out of the rings quite easily. When they do, they go to the place where all small things go when dropped. My advice is to resist the temptation to disassemble...Just pop the c clip out of the shaft and insert shim washers until you have it the way you want it.

Submitted by tferrer@gmail.com on Fri, 08/02/2013 - 12:17

Thanks George! I pulled the thin black plastic wrap from the bird cage section of the outer column and inspected the area pretty thoroughly well as the surrounding area. Didn't appear anything was wrong but I'll take another look. I was hoping to not have to remove the entire thing as it looks like the bolts require getting a wrench on both sides of them. The ones closest to the bulkhead look to be problematic. Is it easier if I remove the dash top??

Thanks again for the advice. It's appreciated!

Submitted by SE98-32482CJ on Fri, 08/02/2013 - 06:57

Tyson the Series 2 car uses a conical bearing. I was not aware of any vendor offering that. You need to remove the column and inspect it well. Often the problem is a slightly collapsed outer column from a shunt. The expanded metal outer column in made to collapse and does. This results in a lot of play. If the column is straight and the bearings are good then often a shim is needed to firm things up. Do not make it too tight as it will destroy the bearings which are caged in plastic as you will see. Good luck.