Series II Stromberg Carbs.

May as well do the power-boosting 5-minute fix while you're in there. Do it on both secondary throttles of course. See this thread and read to the very end if unclear. Actually, if you have the manifold off you can do the full sleeving mod someone describes here, but if just taking the carbs off then the 5-minute fix is good enough:

http://forums.jag-lovers.org/av.php?1547070n81

Michael I have had my Strombergs off a few times over the years. I have never removed the manifolds. I just unclip the linkage rod in between the two carbs, disconnect the fuel line at the filter bowl, disconnect the choke cables, remove the 2 nuts (one on each carb) that connects the linkage to the secondary butterfly shaft inside the manifold and then remove the 4 nuts on each carb that secure them to the manifold. You should then be able to remove both carbs together still on the connected butterfly shafts. On the bench you can disassemble them individually if you need to. I have been able to get at all the guts of the carbs by pulling off the tops and carb bowls but have never seperated them from the butterfly shafts since the bushings for the shafts are still in good shape. If those bushings are worn or air leaking at the shaft then I guess the carb shaft will have to come out.

David Barnes
68 E-Type FHC

Michael -
There is no magic to it... it is pretty much what you see is all there is. If you have any doubt, I would take lots of pictures from all angles as you progress.... There is no need to remove any manifold before removing the carbs.
Are you planning to replace or rebuild? If you plan to rebuild, along with the reference above, Practical Classics magazine (British) has done a good article on the work - published in the last year.
Good luck!
Josh

I can find no info re removal of the Strombergs from my 1969 Series 2. Is it OK to remove the carbs without removing the intake manifold and related water pre-heat manifold? Is there a source for a detailed sequence or procedure for disconnecting the linkage?

Update:
Carbs. rebuilt - not a bad job if you take your time and make sure everything is clean. There are a number of documents out there on the web, but nothing specific to the 175 CD that this car had: The needle/jet relationship is not supposed to be adjustable.
The Jag. service book says the needle must not be repositioned (due to EPA regs. I suppose?) . Later cars do have an adjustment.

Someone had already been inside these; the needles were not positioned in the pistons with the shoulder flush with the piston face. I repositioned them - the car now runs better and leaner than it has since I owned it. I also found that the Cold Start Valves (chokes) were blocked - two of four of the holes in one valve were completely corroded up (!) It now starts a lot better.
Oh, yeah, and one of the float valves was stuck open.... not a surprise due to the original reason for the carb. rebuild.
I did adjust the temperature compensators - another "no-no" from EPA, but they are now opening and closing at about the same temperatures: 100f and 140f. I would be willing to bet the car is polluting less now. I haven't had the chance to do a tailpipe check yet.

I hope this is useful!

Josh
1997 XK-8 Convertable
1969 E-Type OTS
1937 Packard 115c

Update:
Carbs. rebuilt - not a bad job if you take your time and make sure everything is clean. There are a number of documents out there on the web, but nothing specific to the 175 CD that this car had: The needle/jet relationship is not supposed to be adjustable.
The Jag. service book says the needle must not be repositioned (due to EPA regs. I suppose?) . Later cars do have an adjustment.

Someone had already been inside these; the needles were not positioned in the pistons with the shoulder flush with the piston face. I repositioned them - the car now runs better and leaner than it has since I owned it. I also found that the Cold Start Valves (chokes) were blocked - two of four of the holes in one valve were completely corroded up (!) It now starts a lot better.
Oh, yeah, and one of the float valves was stuck open.... not a surprise due to the original reason for the carb. rebuild.
I did adjust the temperature compensators - another "no-no" from EPA, but they are now opening and closing at about the same temperatures: 100f and 140f. I would be willing to bet the car is polluting less now. I haven't had the chance to do a tailpipe check yet.

I hope this is useful!

Josh
1997 XK-8 Convertable
1969 E-Type OTS
1937 Packard 115c

Good luck , but PLEASE do both carbs, the gas is destroying all the Internals. XK'S like Welsh I think have the same supplier. Make sure all the new bushings,floats , needles and all are tolerant of the ethanol fuel.
If not the problems will come back even sooner.
Good luck
GTJOEY1314

My experience is the floats in the Strombergs are very prone to leaking. XK's Unlimited sells one that is solid foam type material that may be more reliable. I have also had the inlet needles stick open especially if had not started car in couple of weeks. A good tap on the side of the carb with hammer can unstick them. If the throttle shafts and bushings are in good shape does not seem like too much in redoing a Stromberg. They look more complex on the outside than inside. They seem much more simple than American Rochester or Holley from those years. I just cleaned and blew mine out best I could and installed the gaskets and seals in the kit and with the excpetion of floats have been good for 10+ years. The only real adjustment is the float level. The Jet Needle at least on my car built Feb 68 is fixed but held in with set screw. Should not need adjustment unless damaged or tampered with. A V-12 I saw had adjustable jet needle accessed at the bottom of the damper oil reservior with a long allen-key type tool but I do not know when they change over was made.

David Barnes
68 E-Type FHC

Josh - Luckily, others have gone before you and their knowledge is available. Go to www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm which will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about Strombergs plus some. Triumphs used the same carbs as the SII. I followed this great tech paper and had no trouble rebuilding my carbs, including a conversion from fixed to adjustable needles. Good luck

Thanks, Blake!
I will try to do it up right.
Josh

I think you should photo and document this whole process and write up a DIY for the guys who are considering doing this them selves. I know I will need to rebuild mine sooner or later.