I'm told that the clutch may be replaced without removing the engine. Is there any truth to this?

Submitted by bruce@bluejagc… on Wed, 11/27/2013 - 18:27

I replaced the clutch in my 1970 E-Type 2+2 in the late 70's without pulling the engine. I learned of the procedure from an article that I think was published by JCNA or JANE. Anyway, the procedure is:
1) drop the drive shaft
2) cut a 2" diameter hole in the bottom of the bell housing with a hole saw. You can insert a socket wrench in the hole and access the bolts holding the clutch pressure plate to the fly wheel one by one by rotation the engine by hand. I think this was done via the universal joint at the rear of the transmission but I'm not sure. it was a long time ago.
3) Loosen the engine mounts and slide the engine forward as much as possible.
4) You should now be able to move the transmission rearward enough to drop it out. (Be careful, I found the hard way that the transmission is really heavy when it landed on my chest as I was lying under the car.
5) Do the clutch work. In my case, I removed the fly wheel (gives you a chance to inspect the rear main seal) and had it dynamically balanced with the new clutch. I also used a 10" coil spring racing clutch unit instead of the original 9" diaphragm clutch. (That replacement clutch is still going fine today.)
6) Reassemble everything using the same procedure (don't forget to slide the engine back in place on the engine mounts).
7) Make a nice aluminum plate to cover the hole and attach with small screws (at least this is what I did).

I hope this helps.

Bruce

Submitted by alan.barc@veri… on Wed, 11/27/2013 - 16:16

Does the same apply to the S2? The book says to pull the engine. I replaced the entire clutch assembly and had the flywheel turned 2 years ago and now I am starting to get clutch judder in 1st and reverse. I hate to have to pull the engine again. Thanks