Does anyone use the Evans Waterless Coolant in their XK engine? I've been reading about it, but am wondering if any real world "benefits" outweigh the high price?
Also, to install this stuff, the complete system (including heater core, of course) must be drained of all water. Is there a drain in the core, or would it have to be removed?
Then there's a "Prep" solution, which will hygroscopically absorb any remaining water, so you wind up with the waterless coolant in its "pure" state in your system. Much higher boiling point, so supposedly absorbs more heat to keep engine cooler on those hot driving days (my understanding - may not be correct).
Anyway, with the volume of this system, I'd probably be looking at close to $300 for the conversion. And since I just pumped many gallons of distilled water through and got very little debris out, I have to wonder about the cost/benefit.
But they also claim it's good for the life of the engine. And apparently eliminates the possibility of galvanic corrosion between the iron block and AL head - one of my big worries.
Would appreciate the collective experts thoughts...
Thank you!
Submitted by SE12-52152J on Wed, 03/26/2014 - 10:53
Submitted by SE21-35014J on Sat, 03/15/2014 - 21:17
waterless coolant
I watched a segment of the TV Show "Wheeler Dealers" - (on the Velocity Channel) - where they used the "waterless Coolent" in a Triumph TR-6, and were VERY HIGH on the advartages of the "waterless Coolants". They were very emphatic that you had to be very careful about flushing the system of any remaining water, but I believe they said that the "flushing liquid" could be re-used. AND that it absolutely cured any problem of "over-heating" - (or risk of "freezing") !!
With the problem of "over-heating" on my XK-140 -(in the HOT South-East) -that I would encounter should I decide to remove the alloy Radiater & cooling fan (which I can now use in Driven Division)- should I decide to switch to Champoin Division showing -I would plan to switch to the "waterless- coolant" - to still be able to use the Car without over-heating.
The advantages they mentioned -to off-set the initial high expense was: You never had to replace the fluid , or re-flush the Radiator ever again-(which they otherwise reccommend every 2-3 years with normal antifreeze), and the extreme Temperature range of the
"waterless- coolant", and never any "boil-over".
To my eye- the "waterless- coolent" actually looked a little bit "thicker" or more viscus than "normal" antifreeze" .
I too would be interested in the personal "hands-on" experience of others in the use of "waterless Coolant".
Submitted by SE12-52152J on Fri, 03/14/2014 - 13:49
waterless coolant
My car has a newer pump, which may or may not address this problem (I really don't know). But your point is well taken. I've sent a message to the coolant manufacturer asking this very question.
Thanks!
Submitted by coventryclassi… on Fri, 03/14/2014 - 11:29
waterless coolant
I would be very careful doing this with a 120. If you read the engineers report, the 120 had problems over heating because it cavitated the water pump at higher RPMs. I would think the consistency of waterless coolant would increase this problem.
Cheers Tom
Well, I have ordered 4 gallons of the Evans waterless coolant, and 2 gallons of the "Prep" fluid.
I had to remove (and replace - it was frozen solid) the drain tap to drain the block, and even jacked up the passenger side another notch to get as much drained out as possible. About another gallon of coolant drained out of the block.
I also blew some low pressure air through the heater core and got about a half pint of coolant out if it - does anyone know the capacity of the heater core itself?
Is it safe to assume that the drain tap (driver side of block, near oil dipstick) is the lowest point of the cooling system?
Thanks.