Submitted by abbtm@verizon.net on Wed, 02/05/2014 - 13:26

Hello fellow Jaguar owners.
I'm restoring a '63 coupe and am ready to start re-building the engine. It is out of the car and mounted on a stand.
I have "The complete Official Jaguar "E"" workshop manual. This is all very helpful in giving the tear down steps, but I have many questions.
Do I have the block, head and crank Magna-fluxed?
Should I have the block steam cleaned or would power washing be sufficient?
Is it enough to flush out the block with water and air pressure.
I'm ok with checking the head and block for flatness, the cams and crank for straightness and cam lobes for wear.
The speedo has only 46,000 miles on it, so things may not be too badly worn.
I'd love to know where to draw the line as to when the crank or cams need to be re-ground.
The engine is seized though so I imagine the block will need to be re-sleeved. (it does have sleeves doesn't it?)

Where can I find more step by step information?
Your input would be much appreciated. I've been tinkering with cars for decades, but this is my first full engine rebuild!
Alan Brown.

Submitted by abbtm@verizon.net on Sun, 05/04/2014 - 17:17

Thanks for all your advice. I launched into the engine about six weeks ago. As I took it apart I ran into a few things that concerned me. The top chain adjuster between the cams had been tweeked with a punch! only cosmetic damage though. I found the lower chain tensioner when I dropped the oil pan. The chain had worn a groove in several places from being so loose. I think the engine must have run badly and noisily. Again though, no serious damage. The sleeves were already .030 oversize, the bearings showed little wear. I took the block, crank, timing chain cover and the rods to a Machine shop in Perkasie PA. I'm waiting for a call from him soon as to what needs to be done. Next, I'll take the head apart and and see what needs to be done there. I read somewhere that re-building the engine is the "wine and cheese" part of a restoration. Not too far off the mark.

Submitted by abbtm@verizon.net on Mon, 02/17/2014 - 22:21

Thanks for the input and encouragement.

The previous owner said that he had simply parked it in the garage and left it. I'll find out how seized it is soon. The complete shell goes off to the Painter on Saturday barring any more snow. I will then have room to work on the engine.
I will check out the tool loan program, since I'll need the tool required to loosen the cam chain tension to start with.
I've read about the oil ways in the crank, I'll be very careful to check them.
I'm looking forward to this part of the project.
Alan.

Submitted by meering@comcast.net on Fri, 02/07/2014 - 15:27

alan john meering of ncjoc the advice chris and joel ia sound one extra thing to make sure is done is the oil way in the crank . if the engine has been sitting for while sludge could cause a blockage. not to far from you is one of the best jaguar savvy machinists in our area roy chambers of r. c.automotive, 301350 8408 .if you would like to talk my no is 301 609 8557 any time .jam.

Submitted by NC98-56048 on Wed, 02/05/2014 - 22:00

Alan; I have completed three engine rebuilds, farmed out the machine work of course , two of them a MG TC and a MGB are still running and the 4.2 E Type has not been asked to start yet but is in the car and waiting.
Wash the block with soap and water and hose and take a power washer to it. If able turn it from top to bottom and do it all over. You will be surprised how much stuff will come out. You can't hurt it.
If you know nothing about the history of the engine as to why it was seized a good engine machine shop could advise you as to what might be needed to make it a good engine.
Good luck and let us know what you find out. Joel.

Submitted by NC49-54710 on Wed, 02/05/2014 - 20:57

I am in the process of reassembling my e type V12. I spent some time finding a good local machine shop to do most of what you've described. They cleaned the block and heads, checked for cracks, etc. They then inspected all of the parts for wear (liners, crank, headers, valves, etc.) and addressed whatever needed addressing, which wasn't a lot. I also had them repair a few stripped threads in the block. After recutting the valve seats, they installed a new set of valves in the heads for me. I spent ~$1500 for the machine shop labor. Keep in mind, I did all of the tear down (and am now reassembling). I was able to focus on the brakes, power steering pump, alternator, etc. while they were dealing with the engine. Anyways, hope this helps.

By the way, if you haven't checked it out already, the tool loan program that JCNA provides is very helpful (when it comes time to reassemble).