Think we need to install a new clutch and inspect the trany.

I know to remove the bonnett, then pull engine and trany as one piece.

Any other major things that are needed to do this job?

Have done this a number of times on smaller cars, ie; AH Sprite and MG Midget, but never on Jag.

Thank you,

Bill French
Hilton Head

Submitted by jagboy69@hotmail.com on Thu, 06/24/2004 - 14:29

Another thought that is often over looked... If you'd like to cut down on the excessive heat in the car... Time for some reflective heat insulation material applied to the area above the gearbox and on the firewall section.

Submitted by mcload@ev1.net on Wed, 06/02/2004 - 10:40

I agree! Refitting a bonnet is a major pain in the &*%$! I would highly recommend dropping the engine and tranny through the bottom rather than lift it out....though I assume at this date it's too late. Also, I never trusted the aluminum lifting fittings on the engine; I'd use a plate or steel L-shaped brackets between the two studs.

I don't recall why I didn't care for the adjustable torsion tie plate. It may have been the location of the agjustment nut or amount of force required, but I just opted not to mess with it.

National or Continental champ? What's the difference? Actually, I try to remove that little bit from my signature, but sometimes it appears and I miss it.

Patrick McLoad
1966 E-Type, Right-hand Drive Roadster
#1E1445

Submitted by pkelly@state.pa.us on Mon, 05/10/2004 - 13:21

I'm not a mechanic, but I know a lot of people drop the engine/transmission down from underneath in order to avoid removing the bonnet.
Patrick Kelly

Submitted by NE52-32043 on Mon, 05/10/2004 - 12:23

William,

I tend to agree with you. I think it's really only necessary to refresh the U-joints. Unless the car has been experiencing vibration, or he's intending to run at really high speeds a lot, the drive shaft is probably okay as is. Personally, if the joints are out anyway, I'd replace them even if they otherwise looked okay. Guess I've been bitten by Murphy a few too many times myself for not replacing things when I had them out for something else.

Steve Weinstein, JTC-NJ
'72 E-type 2+2
'70 XKE FHC

Submitted by bonnettoboot@e… on Mon, 05/10/2004 - 00:05

Patrick, what was your reason for not installing the modified torsion bar set up? I am considering fitting one. Also, if Steve reads this,it is not necessary to balance the drive shaft only check that the Joints are good

Jaguar affectionado and etc.

Submitted by cleavefamily@c… on Sat, 05/08/2004 - 00:16

Patrick,
Don't you mean 2002 C5 Continental Champion? And while he has the driveshaft out, shouldn't he have it balanced?
Stew Cleave
JOCO Chief Judge
'69 E-Type 2+2
'01 S-Type 3.0
and other LBC's

Submitted by mcload@ev1.net on Fri, 05/07/2004 - 22:18

Don't forget to rebuild the clutch slave cylinder as well. The fit between the small piece of hydraulic tubing (coming off the slave cylinder) and the "feed" tubing is very critical and very difficult to reconnect...don't bend it!
I've never been a fan of the adjustable torsion bar plate. I returned mine.

Patrick McLoad
1966 E-Type, Right-hand Drive Roadster
#1E1445, 2002 C5 National Champ

Submitted by NE52-32043 on Tue, 05/04/2004 - 11:43

Excellent suggestions by William. You should also consider changing the starter. Replace the Lucas with an after-market high torque starter. Significant weight reduction, plus much more dependable. Much easier to do with the engine out than in the car.

Steve Weinstein, JTC-NJ
'72 E-type 2+2
'70 XKE FHC

Submitted by bonnettoboot@e… on Mon, 05/03/2004 - 17:02

Suggestions, modify the cross plate to an adjustable one for setting the torsion bars. re-seal the trans (auto or stick)Remove the prop shaft and replace/service the joints. Also, change engine and trans mounts mounts, hoses, belts and service radiator. Check all of the freeze plugs for corrosion.

Jaguar affectionado and etc.