I have an exhaust leak so I want to replace the seals on the exhaust manifolds I talked to a mechanic who told me that sometimes the bolts break off and then it needs to be remachined. He says it is very likely Anybody had problems like that?
Submitted by brianscats@sym… on Fri, 11/05/2004 - 11:09
Submitted by cstack@e-smart… on Sun, 10/03/2004 - 01:23
Re.: Anybody has experience with replacing the seals on the exhaust manifol
This problem has some hidden issues. A manifolds exhaust leak, which we assumed was a bad gasket, turned out to be loose bolts. If the mechanic you spoke with had experience mostly with iron blocks, he may be generalizing a bit. The aluminum motor in the S requires low torque when fastening the manifolds.
Note: do not forget to use ant-seize compound and watch the final torque when re-fitting anything to the aluminum components.
The bolts/studs on holding clamping the pipe to the manifold is a different story. You may wish to spray a penetrating oil and let it sit awhile. Although the one on my S came off with just careful consistent torque.
The real issue is not the manifolds and pipes. It is the problem getting to the bolds on the underside of the manifold. In particular the last two in the rear on both sides.
According to the factory directions; you must work from underneath after removing heat shielding.
This is all well and good, but the work space is so cramped and the reach so far that I sustained cuts in the mid forearm. For us, this is my daughter's car, we had the good fortune of her thinner arms and smaller hands. Even so, our work has been halted and we are now wrestling with either attempting to pull the balance of the exhaust system to make way for the work or pulling the motor.
By the way, when working under the Jag do not forget that it is a 2 ton machine with very low ground clearance. Please make sure that you use ramps, jack-stands or the like to avoid getting squished. It is such a shame to loose a Jag owner in this way...
-Brian
Three friends of mine have their own Jaguar repair shops and I visit them frequently.This is a matter only as to the access of the bolts.Not a
tough job but it takes some time.It definetly is much easier if you are able to use a hoist.I don't worry if the stud breaks as I have 20 good manifolds to choose from.If you use a flame to heat up the nut first then it will generally come off easily.Don't force it if it won't budge.As a last resort brase the nut to the stud and use an impact gun,not a ratchet
to power it out.If you need further info please call.
Brian Scriven.
1957 XK 150 D.H.C.
1962 MK 10 4 manual o/drive
1965 3.8S