I have just purchased a 1969 E Type, and before I can register it here in B.C. I have to pass a vehicle inspection. No emissions, just safety. I have a few issues to sort out, and thought I'd ask for advice. I have a manual which in some ways is complete and explicit, but lacks pictures I could use. I financed my university as a sports car mechanic, and worked on Jags back in the 1960's (and owned a 120 and a Mark V), and could probably work all this out, but if you guys are willing, this could save me a lot of time. So.
1. The otter switch seems to be located on the rad header tank on the right front. It was disconnected. When I connect it to the fan leads (also came disconnected), the fans come on when I turn the key, engine dead cold. Is there another switch somewhere?

2. No high beams. Fuse looks ok. Is there a common problem?

3. No horns. The relay is in a lousy place to get at. Easy test advice?

4. Windscreen washer US. Has to work for the test. Lucas pump a mass of rust. Hoses cracked. One squirter loose. My instinct says get a system from a Toyota and stick it in, but how the hell do I get at squirters? Not through the dash, that's for sure. I do NOT want to remove the windscreen.

5. Handbrake does nothing. How do I get at the guts? Manual says nothing about taking up the tunnel cover, and the carpets are glued down.

That's it for now. Apologies for laziness, but I'd like to get the thing tested and on the road so I can get on with tuning.

1969 E Type

Submitted by ianc@uvic.ca on Thu, 03/02/2006 - 15:39

Thanks for the advice. The otter switch is US. I've ordered another one. I suspect we're at cross purposes, Mr. Frank. I meant that the rad was the coolest part of the cooling system. Sorry. The header is indeed the hottest part of the rad. Fuse cleaning did nada, but I noticed #8 was burnt. Changed it, and it burned again. My guess is that it happened when I pushed the turn stalk in to test the horn, as the diagram says that #8 fuses interior lights and the headlight flasher, which is also activated by the signal flasher. (Part way for headlight flash, all the way in for horn? Or lift for headlight flash?) Anyway, the horn didn't work. I'm off to the Far East for a month, so it'll have to wait until April. Thanks again.
1969 E Type

Submitted by mfrank@westnet.com on Wed, 03/01/2006 - 22:14

The otter switch is currently only available in one range. Should come on around 185. The header tank is the HOTTEST part of the system.

It's not easy to fit a center-blow horn switch to an S2, so my bet is that it was never hooked up. If you want to make it work, I can help you mod the column.

You can easily access the end of the parking brake cable, the brake mechanism is above the rear u-joint. With some luck, it's just a missing clevis pin.

Submitted by ianc@uvic.ca on Wed, 03/01/2006 - 21:39

Thank you all. I'm pretty sure the otter switch is toast: I'll check. My recollection is that they come in various on-off values. Given the location, I assume I need a pretty low value, as the header tank is the coolest part of the system. Any suggestions? I'll polish the fuse contacts: there's so little space in there I can hardly get at them. The PO installed a new steering wheel with a horn button: I don't know whether he changed the lead over to it or not. I'll check. Washer - yep, FLAPS to the resque. Emergency brake: mmmm. I didn't think I'd see anything from the bottom, but I'll look. Thanks again.
1969 E Type

Submitted by htech@cwnet.com on Wed, 03/01/2006 - 18:50

My E-type is an S1 and, as such originally had no relay. Sounds as though the relay contacts might be welded or bypassed.

I added an additional relay to my S1 and included an override switch and warning light.

The overrride switch allows me to shut down the fan when on the freeway and allow maximum generator(no alternator)output to flow to the battery.

The warning light alerts me to the fact that the engine is calling for the fan and I have it shut down. Tom Hughes

Submitted by mfrank@westnet.com on Wed, 03/01/2006 - 18:13

1) It sounds like your otter switch is shorted. Replace it.

2) Und a battery cable. Now the thing to do is remove the fuse, scrape the contacts on the fuse box, and install a new fuse. The non-conductive fuse problem is well known, but still not explained by science.

3) Are you hitting the right button? On the '69, the horn button is the chrome tip on the turn signal stalk. Push it in. Horn relay is right behind the battery. Just remove the battery, and it's easy to reach.

4) Go down to your local automotive store, buy a generic windshield washer pump, hide it in the tank. The squirters require small hands, reach through the center dash.

5) Removing the interior is too complicated for a short answer. But you should first inspect from underneath. The cable may just be undone.

Submitted by htech@cwnet.com on Wed, 03/01/2006 - 18:10

Regarding the Otter switch, unless a relay has been added to the circuit, it would appear that the Otter switch is shorted. Remove the wires and test continuity between the switch terminals with an ohmmeter. With the engine cold, the switch should be open. Tom Hughes