hey guys - my first post here. my family has always been big into e-types. we have a total of 5 e types, and an XK140. one 62 coupe, two 67's - one coupe one roadster, and 2 69 coupes (one in parts). im going to start restoring one of the 69's in the next couple of weeks. there is plenty of knowledge in my family between my 3 uncles, and plenty of parts - but i dotn know about the paint. it was originally british racing green so i obviously want to paint it that color agian. but what kind of paint should i use? urethane? base/clear coat? what brands? where can i get it in british racing green?

thanks guys

Submitted by mpohl@aol.com on Sun, 07/16/2006 - 11:19

Edited on 2006-07-16 11:20:32

Hi:
My thread goes to paint/body protection -- I just purchased a 1970 series 2 roadster that was painstakingly restored -- can anyone recommend some sort of dust cover to protect the paint and bright work -- I've heard said that some sort of cotton cover works best. In that vein -- do the covers allow for antennas that are not designed to fully retract into the rear quarter -- or are there antennas than will fully retract -- there does not appear to be much room to allow for that

Submitted by pbrentdunkle.h… on Thu, 07/06/2006 - 20:56

Edited on 2006-07-06 20:58:17

Hello, My name is Brent and I am currently restoring my 64 E Roadster. I will be investagating body and paint shops in my area soon. (Baltimore(. Please recommend shops that are worthy to investagate and have some experience in painting and body work on E types.

Submitted by NE52-32043 on Mon, 06/19/2006 - 12:14

Based on what you say, definitely go base coat/clear coat. It will last longer, look good and is easier to maintain and fix.

I'd suggest you paint before you put down any insulation material. Check out Koolmat.com. I used that stuff in an old '72 E-type that was an absolute oven and it cut the heat in the cabin to almost nothing. Also put it in a '69 OTS I restored and it worked great. But you should paint first. You want to be sure that car is well sealed under the insulation to prevent future rust. Koolmat produces a pre-cut kit for E-types that make the installation much easier than when I did my '72. NAYYY, just a satisfied customer.

Steve

Submitted by Saleen4971@hot… on Fri, 06/16/2006 - 19:54

im on long island, new york. i dont really care baout it beign the "correct" kind of paint, i want it to look good and last. im going to paint the entire car myself inside and out. tuesday i will fidn the paitn code form the vehicel itself. i wanted to do base/clear because thats what i am used to detailing, and theres obviously a reason why EVERYBODY uses it now - its better.

before any body paitn gets doen though, i have to take the interior out, clean/fix any rust, paitn it, and throw down some dynamat type stuff.

Submitted by NE52-32043 on Fri, 06/16/2006 - 11:23

First, welcome. If you are not already a member, you should consider joining JCNA and your local club (you don't say where you are from, but we have local clubs all across the country). Your local club members can be an invaluable source of information, parts, tools, etc.

As for the paint, you can get the paint code you need from the Terry's Jaguar website:

http://www.terrysjag.com/paint.html

That will give you the Dupont codes for both laquer and enamel. Those codes can then be cross-reference by a good auto paint store or shop for PPG, Glasurit or other paint to assure you are getting the right color match. There are hundreds of "British racing green" colors, and they vary widely. If you want the original color, work from the official paint codes.

As for what kind of paint, it depends on what your objective is in restoring the car. If you are not concerned about being "concours" correct and competing for a JCNA national championship, IMHO, go with a base coat/clear coat combination. The finished product looks great and is much easier to touch up than laquer or enamel. And if you are planning on doing the paint yourself, it is easier to work with. If you are having it done by a professional shop (which I'd highly recommend, even if you do the body prep work yourself), most shops prefer to shoot base/clear and are set up to do it, unless you go to a shop that specializes in antique car restorations.

Steve Weinstein
'70 XKE FHC, 69 XKE OTS