Sump Removal

68 E-Type 2+2
Thanks,Bob, it's too late now so I'll have to keep an eye on the belts.I made a tool similar to the one shown in the repair manual so didn't have to pull the head.Thanks for the information on the DP.I'm trying to get it ready for a rally school on Sunday so we'll see how it works. Paul

Hi Paul,
In a perfect world the wear pattern on the DP should be same all the way around. If there are no marks on one side the seal is barely or not making contact at all. When Jaguar brought out the Teflon seal in the late 80's it was a kit that included the keyless DP with the internal O-ring and they specified the removal of the oil slinger. The new DP was slightly longer so that the removal of the oil slinger would not throw the belt alignment off. The DP is a very close fit on the crankshaft and and I never understood why there was a key as once the crank bolt is tightened down all the load passes through the DP to the shaft itself. If you did replace the normal crank seal that comes with gasket kits with the Teflon style, to the best of my knowledge, the oil slinger should be removed which will be difficult with the sump and chain case in place. If you still have the normal type seal with the Teflon type distance piece I wouldn't worry about the slight belt misalignment, just keep an eye on unusual belt wear.
There are several versions of the valve seals and I have no idea if one is better then the others. sure hope that you didn't pull the head to replace the seals because with the right tools that is not necessary.If you only have 1K miles on this engine perhaps the the rings are not totally seated yet.
Good luck!
Bob

68 E-Type 2+2
Thanks,John, that seemed to be the culprit. I thought it was loose enough but when I took the top plate off,that freed it up. I positioned the crank & took the bolts out of the front mounts & it came right out. It's all cleaned up & back in. Thanks for all the help guys!

As others have pointed out, you can raise the engine by detaching the motor mounts and raising the engine. Ive removed mine without properly positioning the crank but it is so much easier if you do position it as mentioned. One thing no one mentioned is:

Before you start jacking up the engine remember to disconnect the engine stabilizer locatd behind the head and attached to the bulkhead.

Best Regards, John

Hi Paul,
Your last message raises several questions.
1 -Was the wear pattern present on the distance piece before the engine was rebuilt?
2- If so was the chain cover and and sump checked to see if something is preventing
the seal from centering itself?
3 - From your description of the distance piece it sounds like you're now using the teflon seal or
did Jaguar upgrade all of the DP's to the Teflon style?
4- Did you measure the length of the new style DP as originally they were about 1/32" longer to
make up for the removal of the oil slinger that was not used with the Teflon seal?
5- Weren't the valve seals replaced during the head rebuild?

I wish you luck on the new valve seals curing your smoke problem. Jaguar didn't seem to concerned about intake valve seals until US emmissions were coming into effect, most likely to clean up the exhaust emmissions. If the valve guides and valve stems are good very little oil gets into the engine at this point.
As a point of interest It's been my experience that the oil seal rides slightly off center on the DP so it's possible to reverse the DP and the seal will have a new surface to ride on.
Bob

68 E-Type 2+2

Thanks Brian & George. You're right,George,I guess I was afraid of fouling the upper chain.Brian, I had the timing cover off to change the front crank seal.I found a wear groove in the distance piece ahead of the oil slinger where the seal rides.Funny thing is it was only worn on the key side.The other half was fine.The new replacement has no keyway & added an "o" ring on the inside.I guess I missed it 20yrs. ago when I put it together. I also changed intake valve seals while I have the cams out.I hope this takes care of the leak & smoke on down-shift.It's only got 1k mi. since rebuild.

Paul if the cams are out you can get on with it. Cams out so you can not foul the valves. George Camp

I did this almost 10 years ago. After removing the front engine mount nuts, I used a long 2x4 under the oilpan to jack up the engine or you can hoist it up. Take it up until at least two short 2x4 pieces fit between the motor mount and the bracket. I had the front timing cover off when doing this as I remember. That part will not come off unless you start loosening cylinder head nuts and remove the downward facing studs. Removing downward facing studs on the front timing cover may be required and a better option to get the oil pan off if it will not clear without it. It is heavier than a domestic car oilpan so be ready for it.

Thanks, Bob ,I have to get my cams back in after adjusting clearances before I rotate the engine. I'll try it & let you know in a few days Thanks for the tip. Paul
68 E-Type 2+2

Paul,
I know this will work on a 3.8 and should work on a 4.2. Rotate the engine clockwise so that the back piston is past TDC.Then use a piece of 1/4" wooden dowl rod and with it placed straight back through the plug hole the magic measurement is 5.875" from the top of the spark plug threads to the cylinder wall/piston junction. If it still tries to hang up rotate the crank slightly one way or the other. I found this measurement by accident and would appreciate knowing if it is the same on the 4.2.
Bob