The fuel pump on my 140 sometimes will just quit for no reason, most of the time it is when I go to restarting it after a drive. Somebody told me the points may be sticking inside the pump, anybody had this problem? If so, how did you fix it?
Regards,
Gill

Submitted by pharmon@jcna.com on Wed, 05/23/2007 - 08:00

I have a '59 XK150 and have had the same issues. First thing you need to do is make sure the electrical connections to the pump are in good condition. In my case the ground wire running to the chassis was very rusted. Secondly, I assume you have a good in-line filter installed before the pump. Third, you need to remove the pump, take off the bakelite cover and dress the points with 5oo grit wet or dry paper. There is also a modification you can make to the points to prevent them from arcing/sticking. I am pasting a message from Mike Eck detailing the procedure:

"Here's how to connect a suppression diode to your SU fuel pump.

Get a 3 Amp, 50 Volt (or more) diode, such as the 1N5400 series. Radio Shack stock numbers 276-1141, 276-1143 or 276-1144 should work fine.

The diode has two wires, and one is marked with a white band painted around the case. Connect the banded wire of the diode to the side of the fuel pump coil that connects to the positive side of the battery. Connect the unmarked diode wire to the side of the coil that connects to the negative side of the battery.

More specifically, if you have a positive ground car, connect the banded diode wire to the coil wire that connects to the points, and the other diode wire to the coil wire that connects to the power terminal.

If you have a negative ground car, connect the banded diode wire to the power terminal and the unmarked diode wire to the coil wire that connects to the points.

While you're in there it wouldn't hurt to dress the points a bit or even replace them.

Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA
Smiths clock electronic upgrade
'51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8 MK2 MOD, '72 SIII E-Type 2+2"

Pat Harmon
'59 150 OTS
'01 XK8