As the original style lucas alternators become scarce are there options to fit a modern US brand (GM, Ford, Chrysler) alternator with internal field coil control? I am looking for something specific re. model no. and adaptions required such as pulley and mounts. My car is a 1967 2+2. i have an original alternator, but want to preserve it.

Submitted by david.kenny@sy… on Wed, 10/24/2007 - 19:03

I found a reconditioned Delco unit locally, which will fit except for the requisite double V drive belt pulley. This is the hooker. How do I get such a pulley for the shaft size of the Delco unit? Right now I'm not too concerned about the ignition warning light. You cannot see it in daylight anyway as it is so weak.I do appreciate the advice though. Thanks everyone!

Submitted by david.kenny@sy… on Wed, 10/24/2007 - 18:45

I have contacted all the major supplierws in the US and Canada and there simply are no alternators available. They may eventually be available. I checked with local repair specialists and they say rewinding coils is easy but replacing diodes is impossible as the Lucas ones are irreplaceable.

Submitted by mfrank@westnet.com on Mon, 10/22/2007 - 22:06

You're talking about a self-exciting alternator. If you chose this type of alternator, it would truly be impossible to wire the light. (But even in this case, the light will still work if the car has the older pressure switch arrangement)

The current output of the one-wire alternator is completely irrelevant. The problem is that the the B+ terminal is always connected to the battery "+", so it can't ground the light. Nor can it's polarity change as the alternator beings to charge.

If you use the more common three wire Delco, the "1" terminal will allow the light to ground through the internal regulator until the alternator starts producing current. When the alternator begins charging, the "1" terminal will become a 12V+ source. The lamp will thus have +12V on both leads, which is why it goes out. A Delco three wire alternator is a much better choice, if only for the reason that it's easier to find replacements on the road. The hookup is almost as simple as the one wire, you don't have to rev up the motor to initiate charge, and you don't need the resistor if you remember to carry a spare bulb. The resistor can be installed without much fuss by most home mechanics.

There is no C2 or W1 connector on the regulator, perhaps you're thinking about the alternator relay. You couldn't make the light work this way. The WL wire doesn't supply power to the lamp: it connects the it to ground through the 3AW.

Submitted by bonnettoboot@e… on Mon, 10/22/2007 - 21:33

The ammeter and gauges would all work if the ignition were on and most of us Jag people do not leave the key in anyway BUT, The problem with wiring it up is, there is only one terminal on the alternator the output, it provides 80+ amps at 14 2 volts If you ran it through the w/l circuit it could cause problems. If one wanted to do it it would be simpler to cross connect C2 & W1 at the regulator, then connect as you say to the alternator, but my point is, is it worth it, it is no easy task to fit a resistor in the bulb circuit for the ordinary home mechanic. Jaguar affectionado and etc.

Submitted by mfrank@westnet.com on Mon, 10/22/2007 - 20:02

Aside from being 'nice to have', the only purpose it serves is to warn you that the key is in the "on" position. This isn't entirely inconsequential, as leaving the key on can ruin the battery and cause the coil to overheat. For the ten minutes it takes to do it right, why would you not connect it?

Submitted by mfrank@westnet.com on Mon, 10/22/2007 - 19:25

As William says, Delco is a possibility. The w/l WILL work if you wire it correctly. Specifically, the early 4.2's used oil pressure switches to operate the warning light. If that's the case with your car, the light will continue work, with no modification. But if you have the later type which used a 3AW relay, simply disconnect the relay. Install a jumper between the "AL" and "WL" wires, and attach the alternator end of the "AL" wire to the "1" terminal on the alternator. The light will work normally. The only downside is that the alternator won't charge if the light burns out. To avoid this, simply add a 330 ohm resistor in parallel with the bulb.

The fact is, that almost any alternator will work. Here are a few examples:

1) Hitachi: http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0018.html
(this is for a generator car, but an alternator swap would be even simpler)

2) Autolite: http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0022.html

3) Nippondenso: http://www.coolcatcorp.com/faqs/LucasNippondenso.html

4) Bosch: http://www.coolcatcorp.com/faqs/LucasBosch.html

(The last two are for reversed mount. For a standard mount, there are versions of either alternator that would work)

Submitted by bonnettoboot@e… on Mon, 10/22/2007 - 14:43

I buy a 1 wire Delco unit, it bolts right in and you can leave everything else stock, except the ign w/l will not operate only the ammeter. Any good alternator shop will supply, I use Valley Alternator 818 882 7511. Jaguar affectionado and etc.

Submitted by SC38-21185J on Mon, 10/22/2007 - 14:01

I would check with XK's or SNG Barratt for upgrades that still fit. Actually, you can find E-Type alternators on EBay from time to time; I don't really think they are that scarce....but then again, I haven't been looking.

Pretty easy for any good alternator shop to rebuild them. You might find one, have it rebuilt, and keep as a spare.

Patrick McLoad