xj6 purchasng advice wanted

Where is this car? If you don't buy it, I will! :>)

It sounds like a nice car. I'm trying to assemble a good set of Pirelli P5s right now for my 74. They're lousy tires, but I think they do have a small collector value to some. They're what came on the car and Pirelli (thankfully) havn't produced them in years. Most would just replace them with new tires if planning on driving the car. My car doesn't see much action and I'd like to put the old P5s on it for historic accuracy.

Interior and body are your biggest expenses. If the car was stored in such a way as to preserve those items, it probably won't take a whole lot to get it road worthy. Your $2000 figure sounds reasonable to me. Of course, seeing the car in the metal is the only way to tell for sure.

Edited on 2008-03-07 17:51:42

A question for you: what do you mean by "confirmed" 9k miles? Remember, those XJ-6 speedometers are easily replaceable. The numbers on the speedo face and back housing should tell you the age of the speedo, which should correlate with circa 1986 when the car was assembled. (these cars were made a year before they were exported to the different markets, to be sold as so and so Model Year).

The rear brakes should be the least of your worries, since the bulk of the braking is done by the front rotors and calipers. The Rear brakes are mostly for the Emergency Brake. You can bleed them first without having to dismantle anything. I placed my car on 4 jacks and then placed 4 blocks one under each tire for extra support and safety, since these cars are very heavy. (don't cut corners on Safety when working under this car!). ...then I was able to roll under, and bleed the rears, with a second helper pumping and holding the pedal, the bleeder nipples are very accessible. In other words: leave the rear brakes alone unless you know for a fact that they need work. I have owned my 1984 XJ-6 for the last 17 years, and I have YET to replace the rear pads or rebuild the front or rear calipers. I did replace the front Rotors/Discs myself, found replacements at AutoZone, or was it CarQuest? O'Reilly's has them too I think. Napa too, eBay too. Walgreens and HomeDepot will soon follow.

The tires should be the LAST item you need to replace. Concentrate on preparing the engine to start and then see what it needs.

Jenkins has answered the other questions but if you have more, post them here.

These cars have many GM parts, available from GM cars; Harrison a/c compressor, Saginaw power steering pump, Delco Air Pump & Diverter Valve, Delco Ignition Module, Delco window Motors, parts are available everywhere online, there's lots of suppliers for new and used parts so don't panic.
XJ-6 parts are plentiful and cheap if you shop around.

The following page-link shows many alternative parts and sources.Keep it handy and save it in your Favorites/Bookmarks.

http://www.jamesburt.com/Jaguar/JagTech/JagTech_Parts_XJ6_Substitutes.html

Edited on 2008-03-07 16:53:58

Edited on 2008-03-07 16:44:57

1. Michelins, five for $750.00 (which includes mounting and balancing).
2. Yes, there are drain plugs in back of the plastic covers and no the car doesn't need to be lifted.
3. Replacing the rotors is very expensive and labor intensive but I doubt you need to replace the rotors.
4. I'd pay $12,000.00 for that car sight unseen. I think it's worth even more than that but the price is set by whatever someone will pay.

Joe, I have quite a bit more information for you so if you'd like to email me, please do so at wljenkinsATusaDOTnet

Thanks for the good tips from all of you. Everyone has made some valid points I need to consider. I definetly have more questions for the current owner and you guys. Buying the car will be a difficult endeavor as it is not near where I live. Not sure if I would be able to use the current owners garage. I'm glad you all mentioned the tires-- The car still has the original pirrelli"s from when it was new. The current owner seems to think the tires have some collector value. Question#1--What tires should I replace them with and how much do they cost. Most cars I've looked at recently have Michelens. Question# 2 -- What is the easiest way to drain the tanks? Do these tanks have a drain plug that is accessable from under the car? Does the car need to be lifted to get to them? The rear brakes are one of my biggest concerns. I'm familiar with the configuration of the rear end an I think that Job will have to be done by Jag mechanics as I will not have access to my own shop. Question# 3-----How much would it cost to replace the rear rotors and pads? Changing the fluids and oils I could manage but I now am thinking the car needs to be transported to a jag shop to address the other items, brakes,tires etc. Now your probably wondering why I am considering this car. She's a 87 black beauty, base model,Flawless paint and interior, Clean engine compartment, 9000 confirmed original miles !--not 90K-- its really 9K ! Do I need to say more ? Question# 4 --What do think a car like that is worth. Ha. Ha. I'm really interested in what the responses to that last question will be. Hey this is a great site and I appreciate all your great comments. Really is a great help. Thankyou!!!!

the old saying "appearances are deceiving" holds true for old cars, no matter how many precautions are taken when storing a vehicle long term. A car undriven for 10 years will hold many surprises when trying to revive it from a long sleep.

I do not think anyone here is trying to sway Joe from buying the car, but to use good judgement. Even new car dealers try to move cars in 30 days because they deteriorate, indoors or out.

I do agree with Joe that the body and cabin condition will save him money when he starts to refurbish the car, but what price is he paying for THAT? If the car has mechanical issues, and he doesn't do the work himself, the expenses he will incurr will consume lots of money.

Remember, you are buying someone else's problem. Why else would they be selling?

Joe,

Pete is right, the body, paint, and interior really absorb big amounts of money quickly. But I have to caution you about your estimate of a couple of thousand dollars to get the car roadworthy. Is this just for parts, and you'll provide all the labor yourself? Having restored one of these cars, and having done most of the work myself, I can assure you that $2k does not buy a very big box of parts. And if you are paying someone an hourly rate....

I note you have not mentioned what the asking price is, other than that the owner wants a "high price". One person's high price is another's bargain, so what does this mean? It might help with the advice, any reason you don't want to say what the price is?

One other thing, this car will need a new set of tires, even if they were brand new when it went into storage, they are finished now... you can check the date codes on the tires and if they are more than 10 years old, they are unsafe now, even if they have full tread.

Stored cars are dicey, Jaguars like to be driven, and will deteriorate more by not being used.

Good luck,

Doug INgram

Thanks for all the advice . I,ve got a lot to consider. I have been looking at various series 3 xj6 for the last five years. I ,ve come across a few nice ones and some in pretty bad shape. I've even had a chance to buy one that is in the XJ gallery of this site. The car I'm looking at is the nicest in appearence and has very few miles (less than 20K)--------but it has been sitting in storage a long time!--and the owner wants a high price. I've had other european makes that didn't do well sitting idle. I guess if I buy it I should figure on a couple of thousand dollars to restore this car to roadworthiness. I think I'll make an offer contingent on the current owner getting the car ready to drive--brakes,fluids , hoses,oil'etc.

Joe, chances are you would be into a significant amount of work to make this car road worthy. Sludge in the oil, moisture in the braking system, water in the fuel tank, tires with permanent flat spots, rubber deteriorated everywhere... the potential list goes on and on. I'd look at this car as a project, and if that suits you, pay and proceed accordlingly. And be prepared to spend thousands, and much more if you don't do the work yourself. On the other hand, if what you really want is a car to show and drive, there are better options close at hand.

Doug Ingram

the battery, the thermostat, the brake calipers, the tires, the oxygen sensor, the radiator could be clogged, so many things could deteriorate in so many years, like rubber parts, also referred to as "dry rot". The fuel lines at the injectors could easily desintegrate and cause a fire. The ones in my car have lasted over 20 years but what concerns me is dry rot.

If the car is really that good visually, no rust, the leather is not rotted, then it's a matter of trying to start it. And to do that there's a lot of preparation that needs to be done beforehand.

Just think: you are a famous archaeologist and you find a dinosaour. What would you do to keep it intact? Everything you do must be non-destructive. You try to reverse from year 10 to the moment where you are. Everything in reverse.

How about a picture of the car?

The xj6 I am looking at was bought by a collector, driven very few miles then stored with the rest of his 30 car collection. The collection consists of all exotics and classics, most with very few miles. The xj6 is the cheapest car of them all. The car is parked in the back of the garage. There is a dozen corvettes, jaguars, porches, mercedes,and italians between the xj6 and the door.This is why the car has not been driven. The car looks brand new in every respect. I am just concerned about what deterioration can occur from lack of use. I' know that all the fluids,fuel and coolant hoses should be changed. Just want to know what else probably would go bad from just sitting idle. Thanks Joe

Look on craigs list, there are often series three's for sale and running! I believe they are good value for the money and a future classic.

Edited on 2008-03-02 22:59:12

you need to start that engine before you lay your money down. It could be seized. If they are selling the car AS IS, then pay a very low AS IS price. You don't pay premium for a dead carcass, no matter how pretty it looks.
Anything is possible with cars that have been sitting, but 10 years? Why 10 years sitting? The Seller must know for sure. Climate control? So what? I would pass on it. May be good for a parts car. As for myself, I would only buy a car that runs. It it doesn't run, it's not worth buying.

You can bet the a/c system will not work and will need a complete rebuild. Let's see: Condenser, Expansion Valve, Dryer/Accumulator, Compressor, Hoses, Belt, Labor, $3,000.00 easy. the transmission too. Sounds like seized-city to me. Not just the rotors, but the calipers too. Coolant must have turned to corn flour. Gasoline to varnish/turpentine. Oil to gum. Major concerns.

as to the other stuff, I find it hard to believe too. Why would anybody store a car for 10 years and not drive it? Because the car is undriveable of course. Don't forget Tires. You are looking at a major rebuild.

OLD CAR BUYING RULES:
1) always buy the best car you can, otherwise you will pay dearly.
2) always inspect in person, otherwise you will pay dearly,
3) never believe any mileage claims with a Series III XJ-6, (1980?¢ - 1987), those speedometers can be replaced easily. I can do it in under 2 minutes.

Is the car selling for $500.00 by any chance? buy it. $5,000.00 ?? Let someone else buy the problem. Plenty of those available, you have choices.