Upper Steering Column Rebuild 1967 XKE Series 1 4.2 Roadster

The following is a description of my procedure to date in rebuilding the upper steering column from my ÔÇÖ67 Series 1 roadster and some questions for those who have experience with or insight into this.

I have read every post dealing with the upper column back 10 years. References below part description and numbers are from the Factory Service Manual, which covers the steering column at page I.8 and refers to the 3.8 Series 1. The supplement on the 4.2 steering column doesnÔÇÖt have a diagram and I noticed that the layout of the contact holder (#22), contact (#23), insulating sleeve (#26) and earth contact (#28) is slightly different on my unit compared to the image at page I.8. I attribute that to the fact that the diagram at I.8 is of the 3.8 and they may have made changed it when they went from 3.8 to 4.2.

In any event, my horn button doesnÔÇÖt work and there is a lot of play between the inner and outer steering column, so I removed the upper column assembly for a bench rebuild. On the bench, the inner column (part #2) just pulled out of the outer tube assembly (#1) and there were no upper or lower spring clips (#6), washers (#5) or evidence of the upper or lower felt bearings (#3 & #4) ÔÇölike they had just disintegrated.

So IÔÇÖm planning to buy new upper and lower plastic bushes and a horn rebuild kit with all the small electrical parts.

My first problem is that the large hand-turning locknut (#9) you use to adjust the steering wheel position in or out, is rusted onto the threads on the split collet (#10). Therefore, I have not been able to separate the male inner column (#7) from the inner column (#2). IÔÇÖve been soaking it in penetrating oil and figure, I will have to use a pipe wrench or strap wrench to force it off or apply heat. Any suggestions on the best approach at solving this rust problem so I can get it apart would be appreciated.

My main puzzle is how the components for the horn button system fit together. The horn switch contact pin (#12), insulating bush (#13), spring (#14) and washer (#15) are straight forward because they slide in after the steering wheel (#31), washer (#35), nut (#34 and locknut (#36) are in place. What isnÔÇÖt so clear is how the small parts that make the electrical contact inside the inner column are configured and how they work. These parts are: the insulating bush (#16), the contact nipple (#17), the spring (#18), the rotor assembly (#19), the slip ring (#20), the insulating sleeve (#21), the contact [where the wire plugs in at the top of the outer tube assembly (#1)] (#22) and the insulating sleeve (#26). The closest posting I found dealing with a part if this issue is a post by Mr. Patrick McLoad dated May 5, 2005 ÔÇ£Horn Switch Contact PinÔÇØ which says the horn switch contact pin (#12) interacts with the contact nipple (#17) and spring (#18) down toward the bottom of the inner column (#2). I suppose when I get the rebuild kit and compare the replacement components with the ones I have, it will provide some clues

I have closely examined the electrical contact assembly (#ÔÇÖs 22 thru 28) at the top of the outer tube assembly (#1) to see how they fit together. The contact (#22) and earth contact (#28) both seem to protrude down thru holes in the outer tube assembly. In mine, the contact (#22) seems to be ragged on the lower end and may be broken off and there is no insulating sleeve (#26) to be found. So itÔÇÖs a little hard to visualize how there are supposed to be positioned when the column is reassembled Can someone tell me what the protrusion on the contact (#22) is supposed to be contacting inside the outer tube assembly (#1),

It may become apparent when I separate the male inner column (#7) from the inner column (#2), but all I can see now at the lower end of the inner column (#2) is the brass slip ring (#20), but I canÔÇÖt see the rotor assembly (#19), the contact nipple (#17) or the spring (#18). Are they under the contact ring (#20) and do I have to remove that to get at those components? I assume the way the system works is that when you push the horn, the brass horn switch contact pin (#12) somehow pushes the spring, which pushes the contact nipple up so that it contacts the rotor assembly (#19) or slip ring (#20), which in turn contacts that protrusion on the contact (#22) . Can some explain where these components are located and how they interact? Do I have to remove the slip ring (#20) to reveal parts #17 thru 19 underneath?

Finally, can someone provide any guidance as to where the new upper and lower plastic/nylon bearings are installed, because my felt ones were completely gone and I could not see where/how they were mounted? I have been told by the parts dealer the lower one has a smaller diameter. I have also read some posts about trimming the ID of the bearings to fit on the shaft but nothing about where to mount on the shaft. Do you mount them inside the outer tube assembly (#1) and then slide the inner column (#2) into it or do you slip it over the inner column (#2) and slide the inner column with the bearings into the outer tube assembly? Are there grooves or holes the bearings fit into?

I realize this my explanation is lengthy, but I think many of the components have simply fallen off my upper column, so IÔÇÖm not able to see where the new parts are supposed to fit based on the positioning of the old parts. Furthermore, the service manualÔÇÖs exploded diagram doesnÔÇÖt really answer these questions.

Hopefully, I will only have to perform this repair one time, but maybe this posting will help me and others who are rebuilding the upper column and fixing horn button problems and have the same questions.

Submitted by ashlaw@netscape.com on Tue, 09/16/2014 - 13:54

Thanks for your posts. I will check out David's reference in the tech library and may call about the rebuilt unit recommended by Joseph if all else fails.

But now that I have the column out and on the bench, I'd sort of like to learn how the horn parts fit and piece it back together if possible. If there's anyone out there who has tackled this project, I'd love to hear from you. Thanks

Submitted by NE23-54945 on Mon, 09/15/2014 - 16:00

Anthony, I think I read the whole thing, if so, a small impact gun will get the nut off.
Sounds like you have a cluster "F" on your hands.
To be honest and save you ALOT of time and money.
Johhny Farrel in New York has completely rebuilt unit on the shelf , complete top to bottom .
I do not want to quote what he gets for them, but its REALLY reasonable, probably half the cost then you buying the parts, blasting the tube, painting it all up and then re assembly.
Call him at 631 454 7977
GTJOEY1314