Todd,
I have just completed a ground up on my 67 E Type FHC and did the following. I had a new engine harness supplied by Rhode Island Wiring who pride themselves on supplying exact replicas with all wires as original matched exactly to your model car. But be aware that it is expensive. I had them rebraid the dash harness as this harness being protected under the dash for the most part is usually good enough to rebraid. RIW does a beautiful job of rebraiding with the correct trace color etc. This is much cheaper than buying new. Also the two harnesses that go to the rear are so well protected that you can probably get away with using as is. That is what I did and saved a bundle. I highly recommend RIW as I have had them do two cars for me and I am more than satisfied. BTW, they provide the most complete wiring diagrams I have seen for their harnesses.

Good luck!

George

Submitted by georgejones123… on Tue, 06/17/2008 - 20:23

Todd,

I wanted to add to my last thread on the subject of replacing your wiring harness with this bit of advice from my own hard earned experience. If you are going to reuse any part of the harness and have it rebraided, do yourself a major favor and purchase a book of adhesive backed numbers which electricians use for identifying wires, to use to identify your wires as you disconnect them. Remember that with forty years of service most of the color coding of the wires will have faded so much as to render them almost useless for refitting by trying to follow a wiring diagram. You should make yourself a sketch of each component and after attaching the sticky number to the wire, write down on the sketch the wire number for re-assembly. Trust me!! If this takes you many hours, you will bless the time you took to do it, because if you don't, it is almost impossible to get the right wires to the right connection, and, it is difficult to fully test all the connections before you close up the dash and hide the wiring. Also sketch the routing of the various parts of the harmess as you remove it because it is so interwoven through the various parts of the car. Unless the two rear harnesses are known to be defective, don't remove them. The car can be painted with them in place and save you considerable time in reassembly

One other tip. I used my battery charger which puts out about 13 volts, which I set to the 5 amp charging rate to test my connections as I went along. This enabled me to pre-test the circuits without the danger of frying the wires if any of them were misconnected which a car battery would do for sure.

Good luck again!!

George