rear brake line diagram needed

Marco,

If you want photos of an IRS with the lines and claipers installed send me your email address. You don't need to remove the springs. Just use a crowsfoot wrench on the end of a 12 inch ratchet extension. It works fine.

If you get the ball type bleed screws and run your bleed line up out of the top hole and down into an ordinary wine bottle (there really is not alternative but to go out thru the top hole), you should find they are virtually self bleeding.

Jay

You are right!

Mark: There just aren't that many pieces involved with the rear calipers to cause much confusion. Just start piecing them together and you'll find that they only fit one way. I also don't believe that the 3.8 and 4.2 are so different that you can't use the 3.8 manual for a guide. Don't get too obsessed with getting a lot of manuals and photos....just get in there and do it.

Good luck

Thanks all for the advice, as you can tell I am a novice to Jaguar E types.

I've done a number of other cars, a 72 911 which I still own and a few early alfa romeo spiders. You havent seen rust until you uncover the carpets and have a look at the floors of early alfa's.

I've got copies of all the sources that both of you have recommended and will be consulting them, however, sometimes the diagrams are incomplete the only way to really see area of interest is a picture. So far I have been spending a lot of time on the net and have accumulated a large collection of reference photos. This should help.

the real problem is that I picked up the car literally in parts and did not have the experience of taking it apart, so I am going in reverse to get it back together.

Thanks again.
Mark

Looking at SNG Barret's catalog on line with their exploded drawings might help you.

Mark: Here is the link to the speed bleeder site, but you might try a NAPA or AutoZone in your area before ordering on-line:

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

If you go to the size chart, I think you'll want the 5/16ths - 24. The only potential downside is that the threads are coated with a reddish teflon material. This is to seal the threads from allowing air into the system thru the threads. Keep in mind that you still have to open these nipples a quarter to half turn to bleed the brakes....when they are tightened down, the system is closed. They will recommend a small bottle of the teflon stuff to renew this thread seal, but you probably won't ever need it unless you do a lot of brake bleeding. Ideally, you should bleed your brakes once a year otherwise water is absorbed into the lines and calipers and rust begins.

I have NEVER had any luck with one of those Mity-Vacs, and I take great pleasure in throwing them as far away as I can.

I am afraid that you are going to have to take off at least one of those springs to get a wrench on the bleed nipple...shouldn't be too tough a job to do so. Or I guess you can bleed the system before you fully install the IRS, if you are careful that is.

One thing that will make life easier to reach the bleed nipples (assuming you are on your back looking up), is to get a cheapie 7/16" box wrench (the longer the better) and heat and bend it to about 90 degrees. Slip the wrench on first, then a length of surgical tubing on the nipple. Now turn the nipple open a bit and pump the brakes. Do not try to use that cheap clear tubing from hardware stores as it doesn't stay on the nipple very well. I have found surgical tubing does much better.

After you've bled the backs, do not forget to do the front calipers as well. A set of speed bleeders on them would be a good idea as well.

Thanks Patrick, I've got a 3.8 shop manual and unfortunately, as you would know, calipers are different,
I am searching for a better manual as we speak, but pictures make the job so much easier.

I have been searching the internet and have gotten a lot of photos but the brake lines are always hidden,

Unfortunately the springs are already installed, the only thing really left to do is install the calipers and lines.

Can you recommend a parts supplier that has these bleed nipples.

Thanks for your recommendations, I will certainly follow them.

Marco

Edited on 2010-02-13 19:31:48

Edited on 2010-02-13 19:31:00

Marco: First, you really need to get yourself a good workshop manual if you are going to be doing this kind of stuff. I checked on EBay and there seems to be little to choose from....there is usually a lot of reprints at a reasonable amount. Anyway, both a workshop manual and the spares manual are must have for anyone working on an E-type.... great exploded views. I sure someone will come along and post an illustration for you.

If this is any help, there is a bridge pipe that connects the top to the bottom of each caliper. There are input lines from each caliper, one longer than the other, that come to a T-fitting that is attached to the cage. A rubber hose connects to the T-fitting and connects to a brake fitting bracket welded to the body. With the rubber brake end connector inserted in the hole, a U-shaped clip slips through above the bracket and a nut on the bottom. A steel line that runs to the front of the car attaches to the end of this now captured brake line. (Rest assured that this line that runs to your master cylinder up front is nice and rusty inside, if original....now would be the perfect time to replace it....don't try to make your own). I would also advise a pair of speed bleeders on each caliper. Speed bleeders have a one-way valve that doesn't allow air back in when you are on the up-stroke of your pedal. Unless you are lucky enough to have access panels in the body above the calipers, getting to these bleeder nipples is a royal pain. Bleed these brake calipers BEFORE you install the rear springs!

Sorry, that's the best I can do right now.

I did a Google image search (and so should you), and found a photo of a rebuilt IRS. Doesn't show everything in detail, but you can see the T-fitting and lines. Not very complicated, actually.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3381/3574881233_99f82ce39d.jpg

Good luck!