I have been unable to remove the brake bleeder screw on the RF of my '63 E-Type Coupe. Tried box-end wrench followed by impact wrench & socket followed by Vise-grips followed by fully "buggered" bleeder screw exterior.

I now have a stainless replacement screw. Any suggestions? Hate to think of drilling the present one out.

Submitted by woebegone@mind… on Thu, 08/19/2010 - 01:16

I never had any issues doing it on a caliper.
On a wheel cylinder, I did pull the guts, and usually honed and put in new cups if it was a good bore.
If it wasn't a good bore, just found a new one anyway!

Another thing I do is put a dab of anti-seize on the threads before you stick the new one in.
I also when doing one that's stuck, go around and pull the others one at a time, use a fine wire wheel to clean the threads, anti-seize them, and re-install.
Never, ever had another issue.

New calipers or wheel cylinders, same thing.

Dave

Submitted by woebegone@mind… on Wed, 08/18/2010 - 18:02

Heat.
If I had a buck for ever caliper or wheel cylinder bleeder I've had to un-stick in shops, I'd be giving Billy Gates a run for the money.

Since the hose is so close, I would remove the caliper, clamp it in a vise, first try heating the bleeder and letting it cool.
I know that doesn't sound right, but rust is generally what does it, and the heat will expand the bleeder into the rust, when it cools, and pulls away, you generally have space enough to put some ZEP45, PBBlaster, or Kroil into the threads and get it out.
If that doesn't work, heat the caliper around the bleeder with vise grips on the bleeder, applying pressure (not a lot) to see when it nudges.

When it starts to move, keep going so it doesn't lock halfway out.

The heat generated is not going to be an issue for seals, if you knew how much a 70MPH emergency stop generated in heat.

Jsu an observation from the trenches.
Dave