I can't seem to get enough leverage to release the tension on the top bolt to push it flush with the plate. The manual suggests prying between the torsion bar & the bottom bolt head.This is keeping me from removing the engine. Does anyone have a suggestion?

Submitted by bonnettoboot@e… on Sat, 01/29/2011 - 12:18

Years ago when we did clutch work it was convenient to remove the torsion plate in this way, it saved a lot of time. The fact is 30 odd years on virtually every suspension has dropped a couple of inches and the torsion bars need readjusting anyway. So just undo the suspension completely, and save the 'mickey mouse" and somewhat dangeroous method described. Then simply adjust the torsion bars to spec.

Submitted by NE40-48370 on Sat, 01/29/2011 - 04:35

Doh, well yeah Paul....I made the mistake of assuming all those were undone. Get yourself a shop manual - it will be essential for correct reassembly depending what you've undone exactly and for and avoiding ride height hassles.

Submitted by pepe01@hughes.net on Fri, 01/28/2011 - 20:34

I tried both of your suggestions, Brian & Pete but still couldn't release the tension. I ended up releasing the top ball joint, shock, steering joint, etc. & let the bottom wishbone down. This released the tension. Now I can proceed with the engine removal.
Thanks for trying to help me out.
Paul

Submitted by NE40-48370 on Fri, 01/28/2011 - 07:31

Have you loosened the suspension pivot bushes? When the suspension is put together you shouldn't tighten the pivots until the torsion bars are at ride height so the rubber doesn't get overstressed/torn at full bump. That being the case, if you then split the ball joints you can be left with some tension at full droop. I'm nervous heaving on suspension parts whilst underneath a car so when doing this work on an E-type I have an engine crane holding the engine frames as back-up.

Pete

Submitted by bblackwell@jcna.com on Thu, 01/27/2011 - 21:42

If the front ball joints are still bolted top and bottom, there is still residual torque on the torsion bar that binds up the bolt between its two holes. When I did this task almost 15 years ago, the car was on jackstands and I used a floor jack to push up on each bottom ball joint, in turn, until this torque was neutralized as evidenced by when the bolt freed up.
Be sure the car is well supported as it is light up there and you can lift the car off the jackstands. This would be more severe if you were to try and repeat this in reverse to reinstall the bolt after the engine weight is off the chassis if you wanted to roll the car around while the engine is out for whatever reason.

Good luck, be safe, have fun, and isn't it glorious to work on this unique and historic machine?!