hi,
this is my first post. i was wondering about replacing the cylinder head studs on my 3.8L S1. i think they've been torqued too many times and they're getting somewhat corroded, so i plan to replace them with the head in place. any thoughts on best place for buying replacement studs and do i coat the block-end threads with anything (halomar, anti-seize, ??) before installing? i can't seem to find the answer to question #2 anywhere in the literature, including the factory manual. they do seem to extend into the water jacket at that end.
al,
'63 S1 FH

Submitted by jesangel11@live.com on Fri, 09/02/2011 - 01:35

The cylinder head sits on top of your carÔÇÖs cylinders. It seals the cylinders to form the internal combustion chambers. Cylinder heads are most prone to damage when your car runs too hot or overheats. Today, most are made of aluminum, which can warp or crack if too often exposed to excessive heat. This repair, says AOL Auto, will again cost you more than $3,000. The trick to extending the life of a cylinder head is to avoid overheating. Again, the best prevention is a regular oil and filter change. Replacing thermostats in a timely manner and flushing and replacing coolant on a regular basis will also aid in keeping the car from overheating. The fact is cylinder head is in the list of the most expensive auto repair. Therefore, car owners must know this: Preventing the four most expensive types of auto repair. Check that out for the details.

Submitted by alangj@comcast.net on Sun, 05/01/2011 - 12:22

thanks everybody for the input. i think i'll wait on the stud replacement until i'm ready to remove the entire head and do it right. i had removed one stud that came up with the nut when i replaced the D-washers and it looked a bit rusted, but not really excessively so, on the block end. obviously, can't replace the doweled stud until i do remove the head anyway. i had thought that the 3.8L studs also invaded the water jacket, but apparently not so.
al

Submitted by NC19-03320J on Sun, 05/01/2011 - 10:20

Morning John, You are correct about the dowl stud cannot be removed with the head in place. Alan, how do youknow that the studs are rusty and streched? Normally rusted studs are only a problem with the later 4.2 long stud engines.

Submitted by mcfoo@columbus… on Sun, 05/01/2011 - 10:06

You should look into how much torque to use if you put any type of lubricant on the threads. Some people say 10% reduction.

Also, I don't think you can remove the dowel stud without removing the head.

Submitted by allen_l_oshana… on Sun, 05/01/2011 - 08:31

Alan, yes I would replace all studs especially if they are beginning to corrode. SNG has the studs as do most of the usual vendors. Permatex makes a non hardening thread sealant that I always use before replacing the studs. If not sealed, you can expect them to weep coolant up through the head under those chrome head nuts.

Regards,
Allen

Submitted by allen_l_oshana… on Sun, 05/01/2011 - 08:29

Alan, yes I would replace all studs especially if they are beginning to corrode. SNG has the studs as do most of the usual vendors. Permatex makes a non hardening thread sealant that I always use before replacing the studs. If not sealed, you can expect them to weep coolant up through the head under those chrome head nuts.

Regards,
Allen