Rear Carb Linkage Bracket

Craig: The triangular shaped bracket is correct for the rear carb, and it bolts to the 2 rear-most lower studs on the intake manifold. This bracket should be concave with the depressed side facing the engine. The center and front carbs use a "Y" type bracket and bolt to the lower studs on the carburetor mounts. The spring length is not that critical, just make sure it's not too strong or too light. I think the aftermarket houses can sell you that specific spring.

If the car seems to run fine and the deposits on the plugs are grayish-white, then don't mess with the fuel mixture screws. However, you should check the linkage to make sure all 3 carbs are opening the same amount at the same time. To do this, you need to remove the air cleaner parts, including the extension piece that comes off the 3 carbs. Remove the 3 carb. suction chambers (4 screws on each), the springs, and the piston. Keep these in exact order that they came off. You should now be able to see the 3 butterflys. Depress the master linkage to see if all 3 butterflys lift off at the same time. If they don't, then the linkage (on the offending butterfly) has slack in it that should be removed. Once you get these as good as you can, re-install the piston, spring, and suction chamber on each carb (after wiping them down). Whatever you do, do not drop these pieces or you will be in a world of s**t. Before installing the pistons, turn them over and drain any oil that may be in them.

At this point, you really should start the car, let it get to temperature, and then check the amount of air intake on each carburetor. You do this with a gauge called a Unisyn, available at most parts places or on EBay. Using the large "slow-running screw" (located at about the 2 o'clock position on each carb), try to dial in each carb to where each is pulling the same amount of air.

Make sure you have good clean machine oil in the dampers. Unscrew the small damper caps on top of the carburetors; remember, you drained these before reassembly. Drip about 5 tablespoons of high-quality machine oil in these tubs. You'll know when you have enough oil when you meet stiff resistance just before the caps meet their screws. Don't worry about trying to make this exact, but over-filling will just make a mess.

With engine running, you should check the seals on each side of the butterflys by shooting a quick shot of engine starting spray where they protrude from the sides of the carb (be carefull to keep it off the paint). If the seals on the butterfly shafts are pulling in air (which they should not be), then the car will momentarily quicken it's idle. If the shaft seals are shot, then a full rebuild on each is in your future.
If the engine doesn't quicken, then you're okay.

Last but not least, give all the linkage pieces a good spray of WD-40, especially on the lower shaft that controls the choke/mixture movement.

This procedure is outlined in the "The Complete Official Jaguar-E" by Robert Bentley. I assume you have this manual; if not, get it! You should also get a reprint of the Parts manual as there are MANY exploded views that are not in Bentley's book. You should also get catalogs from XK's Unlimited, SNG Barrat, Terry's Jaguar, and Welch Jaguar to name a few. Carburetor parts should come from Joe Cuerto. At some point in time, you need to replace the original bowl float needle valves with Grossjets...it's a safety issue.

Good luck, and make sure you have fun. All this little tinkering and learning how things work is the best part about owning an E-Type. Most certainly, use this forum when you get stuck.

Patrick McLoad
1966 E-Type, Right-hand Drive Roadster
#1E1445, 2002 C5 National Champ