I need any info relating to the installation of the pin-beading on the convertible top on a 1960 XK150 DHC. I have the kit which includes the long pieces of lead? and nails, I need help with the correct way to insert the nails and the correct steps in doing this process to end up with a nice chromed piece that will fit to the top and of course look great. One other problem I am having is installing the side glass in the doors. Not sure it I have everything needed to do this, would love any illustrations that show the view of the inside of the doors and the window mechanisms. I would appreciate any calls or emails reagarding these two matters. Call 605-335-6066 and ask for Nancy or Ennis.

Submitted by SE21-35014J on Wed, 03/23/2005 - 17:42

I am currently in the process of installing/replacing the pin-beading on the front edge of the top of my XK-140 OTS. After two failed attempts at trying to use the purchased "straight stock" ie.lead-filled 1/2 round brass tubing -(the first was 6 inches too long & after modification, the weld broke while forming it to the proper shape to fit, and the second was 1/2+ inch too long - which I did not discover until I started to form it to shape -plus several of the nails were loose.) I am trying an idea suggested to me by Bill Terry (of "Bill Terry's Jag. Parts") I found a local machinge shop who could take a 3/8's inch diameter solid bress rod (carefully measured to the proper length needed) and mill it down to a 1/2 round (looks like the lead-filled brass tube except that it is solid brass)and finished off the ends to match the original piece. They then drilled several holes 1/2 way thru the rod from the flat-side at 4-6 inch spacing and tapped the holes to screw in 4x40 screws. Using SS "screw stock" cut to 3/4 inch length & leaving just enough thread intact to screw firmly into the tapped holes, the threads of the remainder (or exposed part) of the short pieces of the "screw-stoch" was ground down to form a SS "nail". Although I have just received the finished "1/2 round" Brass rod with"screw-nails" in place, I can already see the advantage of this System. *Each piece can be made "custom length" for your need; *the nails are Stainless Steel and harder; *they can be removed so that it will be easier to shape the piece to the car prior to Chroming; *the solid Brass 1/2-round rod will be stronger and less likely to be bent out of shape during the Chroming process; and *if a "nail" is bent during installation it will be easy to replace. Bill Terry suggested using "highly-polished" SS rod rather than Brass and that way you don't have to worry about a Chrome shop screwing up or bending your piece. The machinge shop where I had the work done suggested using Aluminum (easier to mill to the proper 1/2-round shape and cheaper) and having it Chromed -but I'm not sure how that would work -(??too soft) but easier to shape. Since I can (with my application) I plan to use a "ratchet-type wood clamp" (from Lowes or Home-Depot) to "squeeze" or press the "nails" into the wood -better control and less chance of damage to the chrome or bending the piece or nails -than hammering. If interested in the name/phn.# of the machine shop where my work was done -contact me at jerlynn2atmsn.com, -though any precision machine shop should be able to do this job.
Jerry Ellison
Fayetteville, NC
XK140 OTS

Submitted by SW03-09811 on Tue, 03/15/2005 - 15:12

Nancy,
Pin beading derives its name from the fact that it is held in place by pins attached to its back side. The standard material is lead-filled half-round brass, or possibly copper, tubing. The ends are normally rounded and tapered to fit flush with the hood fabric.

I have assembled some beading on a couple of occasions but am by no measure, "experienced".

The beading is normally delivered in its basic lead-filled unplated form. It is first shaped/bent to fit the area to which it is to be attached and the ends finished. Thereafter, the "pins" are fitted.

The pins themselves are 3/4" x 17 brass nails or something similar. The pins are located, perpendicular to the flat side, about 4" apart and are soldered in place after first drilling a small "locating hole" in the lead filling.

The beading is then brought to the chrome-plater with strong admonitions to not change its shape.

Installation, of the curved sections, is dificult since the associated wood backing is hard and the pins may bend. Use of a wooden or plastic mallet is recommended and pre-drilling pilot holes may be necessary.

Good luck,
Dick Cavicke