Parts suppliers

I didn't know John was still around, but yes, he sells good stuff! Too bad he doesn't have a catalog to download on-line. That would be very helpful.

Patrick

WOW! That's a lot of valuable information, Patrick. I don't think I will ever attempt that with our E-Type but I've printed your message and will keep it in my info file.

Todd: It is a good thing that the E-Type is not your first restoration as they are quite complicated for a first-timer. Going concours makes it that much tougher, but I wouldnÔÇÖt do it any other way.

Before you begin, you will need 3 things: the correct E-Type service manual for a 4.2 Liter; the correct Spare Parts manual; and a decent digital camera. The manuals are available on E-Bay. You can find originals in the ring-binders for about as much as the reproductions, but either will do. I would skip the CD-ROMs as the scanned pages are difficult to readand you have to have a computer to read them. The illustrations alone in the Spares manual are worth the price. I even scanned and printed the illustrations only, and put them in a small binder for reference. But if/when you are looking for a specific part, it is best to find the part number and begin your search that way.

There are any number of parts suppliers out there. You should pick up a Hemmings Motor news and contact each for a catalog, or just visit their websites and download one. A few or the largest are XKs Unlimited, SNG Barratts, Terrys Jaguar, and perhaps Welshs Jaguar. Personally, SNG Barratt is the most consistent in quality; has very knowledgeable E-Type guys; and are good about returns or exchanges if something isnt right. Plus, SNG Barratt still uses original Jaguar parts numbers.I think XKs has abandoned them, but I could be wrong about that. These catalogs are also good to have on hand for identifying parts.
For body panels, be certain they are from Martin Robey, the guys who have the original stamps and dies from the Jaguar factory. Martin Robey has a website as well, but keep in mind they are in the UK. SNG Barratt probably stocks MR panels. They are not cheap, but are the ONLY replacement panels to use.

Everyone seems to stock replacement interiors, but for a concours car, I would recommend BAS Jaguar Interiors. They have a website, and will send you a swatch of samples. Personally, I sent my seats, center console, and dashtop to them and let them do the covering. I installed carpet, side panels, and instrument panel skins myself.

Youve got to be careful about wiring harnesses. I know of several folks who got new harnesses, and only after installing did they notice (me included) that there were missing wires. Most use the crimp connectors, but I think a quality place like Rhode Island Wiring actually solder theirs (as per factory). Id start there.even send them your old harness for comparison.

DonÔÇÖt EVER take your bonnet apart, and when you remove it, keep the shims from each mounting position separate and marked as to what side they came off (right upper, right lower, left upper, etc).

I spoke earlier of taking good reference pictures. Here is a blog of a guy who has been taking apart his E-Type. Check out the quality of the photos he is taking. This is exactly what everyone should do:
http://xkeresto.wordpress.com/
Be sure to check out his older, archived posts if they are still available.

Getting to the 3 vacuum / heater transfer pipes are a bitch (plus that small little knurled knob at the bottom of your firewall). Trust me. First remove your windshield glass. There is a small strip of rubber in the middle of the windshield rubber that will pull out (back window as well). Find an end, and pull out this strip. Then use a box cutter and carefully slice through the old rubber. (Replacement rubber is cheap and available). Remove the windshield.

Now remove the dash top. There are nuts (5/16 I think) on both far ends to remove. There are two more in the center console area. Back off the two Phillips-head screws that hold the L-shaped bracket, and turn the brackets forward. Now start to pop off the fascia. It will eventually come off, but if it doesnt, it is probably hung on one or more of the vent tubes that lead up to the vents on the fascia. You may have to remove the panels under the instrument panel to get to them. Be careful not to break the plastic vents. The tubes that are hung up simply slide into these ventsthere are no clamps involved. Also, you should NOT have to first remove the two finishing strips on the inside windshield pillars to remove the fascia, but they will have to come off eventually.

With the fascia off and windshield out, you can now slip you hand into that small access hole in the center of the instrument panel. You will first need to remove the wiper motor assembly and the wiper mechanism.

If you look closely (put on your glasses and provide lots of light) you will see a very small black-colored steel band around the mechanism sockets. On the steel band is a small triangle. If you flip this triangle vertical, it should release the ball from its socket. There are two rods that are connected to the wiper motor on the inside. Find the ends of these two rods (farthest from the motor) and disconnect them from the rest of the wiper mechanism. The motor with these two rods attached can now be withdrawn from the firewall.

This next procedure is important.dont screw this up. Look into the center hole and you will see a red wire, a curvy copper contact, and a spring device. Follow the red wire and disconnect it from the harness. Unscrew the slim nut that is holding the knurled knob on the engine side of the firewall, and push the knob inwards a bit. Now carefully reach down into the recess and free this knurled knob. You will note that it leads up to this delicate curvy electrical contact. This is the device that adjusts where your wiper blades park when they are shut off. You want to retrieve this contact intact without bending it whatsoever. The spring portion will probably pop off its mount, but thats okay.just dont bend the contact. I screwed mine up and had to buy a whole new wiper assembly just to get this part.

From there, the wiper mechanism isnÔÇÖt too complicated. Just back off the large chrome nuts off the 45 degree bezels and carefully retrieve each from the interior area. I recommend your putting this mechanism back together outside the car for safe storage until itÔÇÖs time to deal with them again.

NOW you have access to the 3 transfer tubes near the bottom of the firewall cavity. These are easily removed and replaced by drilling out the rivets on the D-shaped plates. Replace them with new copper or stainless steel tubes when the time comes. The D-Shaped plates should be gloss black, not body color.

Okay, now that IÔÇÖve taken half of your E-Type apart for you, one more resource you need is the JCNA E-Type authenticity guide. (Disregard the Amco bars on the photo! ;-) Be sure to print it out and keep it with your manuals:

http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/e-type1.pdf

Good luck!
Patrick McLoad
JC Houston
1966 E-Type
#1E1.445, Right-hand drive Roadster

www.mcload.com