Hi Guys,

Finished a 2.5 hours job of cleaning all the old glue and rubber off the "b" pillar and am ready to install new rubber. I have ordered both weather-strips from SNG and have determined which is left and right.

I have two questions;

1. One end of the rubber has a "closed" end, does it go at the top or the bottom?

2. When the car was repainted the rubbers were replaced and attached with what appears to be 3M weather-strip adhesive. It did not do a very good job. I was thinking about utilizing Weldwood contact cement...what is the recommendation for the type/brand of adhesive?

Thanks,

phil

Submitted by mr.jwhey@rocke… on Wed, 08/21/2013 - 19:36

Bob, Sometimes if you don't stretch you won't be able to close the doors ever. Depends on the door gaps which vary from car to car. If you clamp the ends until the glue sets it won't shrink back.

Submitted by tvtom@sbcglobal.net on Tue, 08/20/2013 - 19:08

I removed the doors on our '63 coupe also although I didn't notice the guide bolts. Originally the car was white and is now green so I had a white pattern to guide me. I still can't figure out why there is such a large "lump" of rubber at the point
the strip reached the front lower edge of the window frame and proceeds horizontally for a short distance.

Submitted by NW41-51254J on Tue, 08/20/2013 - 17:03

I have just replaced all my weatherstriping with rubber from SNG and found no problems. What I did learn is that you do not wanrt to pull any of the weatherstriping into the channels because as you do the rubber stretches and the next day when you come back all of the rubber has returned to it orginal length and is now to short. So to install the rubber I used a small metal pick with a bend in it and used the bend to press the rubber into the channel.
As far as the rubber in front of the door I could see no way the do it with out removing the door which did not turn out to be such a big job as the door hinge had the two bolt holes used at the factory to line the hinges up.
Good luck

Submitted by mr.jwhey@rocke… on Tue, 08/20/2013 - 07:49

Phil,

I recently replaced mine. 3M adhesive worked ok but there seems to be an issue with SNG rubbers.

The rubbers can be stretched lengthwise as you work them into the channel. This allows for the right volume/bulk to fit the door gaps on your car. SNG's rubbers have a seam where the seal fits in the gutter along the top of the scuttle. I'm guessing the molding tool has injection runners at each end and the molten rubber flows towards the center and welds at the seam. Either that or it's just a mold parting line. Either way, the rubber splits too easily at the seam when it's stretched. I tried three times with a new seal each time on the passenger side and it still split. Driver's side did not split.

I have since noticed other cars w/ same problem on passenger side. I have also noticed cars with seals that do not appear to have the parting line. I'm planning to order a new set from another supplier to see if I can find some w/o a seam.

Good luck. I'm curious to know if you encounter same problem.

Submitted by tvtom@sbcglobal.net on Mon, 08/19/2013 - 14:45

Phil: I would like to know how you managed to replace the weatherstrip in the channel beneath the leading edge of the door? That area is covered both when the door is open and when it's closed.

Thanks,

Submitted by lenscats@comcast.net on Sat, 08/17/2013 - 23:10

If applied correctly you should have no problem with the 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Read the directions. You don't just smear it on and stick the rubber. I have used it for years in Arizona where it gets a little warm this time of year, 107 today. and have had no problems.

Len Wheeler
58 XK 150
68 E Type
Tucson