64 S-Type turns over but will not start

JIM. L YOU SHOULD GET A STRONG SPARK. REPLACE THE POINTS AND CONDENSER AND CHECK THE COIL . ALSO THE BATTERY SHOULD TURN IT OVER FAST .
IT WILL START.
ED MESSIKIAN

Edited on 2014-06-29 21:13:58

I sprayed some engine starter while another person turned over the engine and pumped the gas peddle. Result was no pops or sputters.

To check again spark I removed plug 6 and with the engine turning over a small spark would appear periodically.

For this jag #1 is the cyclinder closest to the firewall. That plug wire connects to the post on the distributor cap closest to the tab that the spring clip closet to the engine uses. From their the order is 153624.

It's like the butterfly valves are not opening and letting the fuel/air mixture through.

I rotated the engine until the cam lobe seen through the opening used to add engine oil near cyclinder 6, was pointing to the centerline of the engine. The dog in the distributor points to the post for cyclinder1.

I will order a coil, points and condenser

Jeff is reiterating the manual instruction without the part that says "make sure your #1 cylinder (front or rear, your choice) *is on the power stroke*. So if you want to make the Jaguar #1 (firewall) cylinder #1, look through the oil fill opening in the exhaust cam cover and check the position of the cam lobe, if you chose firewall cylinder as #1, cam lobe should point to the centerline of the engine. Conversely, if you use #1 at the front of the engine, the cam lobe points to outside or the exhaust manifold side. Or, with two people or a remote starter button in hand, remove the sparkplug from the desired #1 cylinder and put your thumb over the hole and jog the engine until compression is felt, then line up the timing mark. Now, remove the distributor cap and note where the rotor points - this is cylinder #1 and you count from here.. Make that the point where you start your firing order. Its easy to get this messed up. Try to remember, if you choose the front cylinder as #1 you have to change the cylinder number with the front as #1, making the fire wall cylinder #6.

Just to add to Bob's post, the firing order is 153624, with number "1" at the back of the engine _ the rotor turning counter-clock-wise.

Ok, getting complicated. Three requirements: fuel, spark, air. Air and spark have been confirmed present. Fuel leaves me confused. So, a little external sourcing is in order. Pull the air cleaner off, leaving only the air horn and shoot some ether down it remove your face and crank the engine, ignition on. No pop or short run implicates ignition. Pop or short run but no continuity is a lack of fuel. Make sure your ignition secondary wiring is not 180 out. If you followed the instructions in the manual when you replaced the cap your engine will be 180 out.

Edited on 2014-06-29 12:12:15

Jim, it isn't just a simple passage, there are two banjo bolts at each end of the orifice that the fuel has to get around, a small one on the bottom of the float bowl itself and a larger one at the other end that holds the starting carburetor in place as well.
Banjo bolts can be notorious for plugging up with debris because the flow of fuel (or oil in many cases) goes down the centre of the bolt, out of the side through two holes and continues on through the orifice to the next banjo bolt.
It's all these corners and holes with in the banjo bolt where debris collects and eventually clog completely.
You can try your carb. cleaner, but just from my experience with banjo fittings, the cure is to disassemble the unit and physically clean things out.

I sprayed carb cleaner into the tube between the carb and float by inserting the straw that came with the carb cleaner into the opening between the float bowl and the carb.

I will pickup a can of starting fluid and try Ed's suggestion next.

Thanks Ed and Michael.

HELLO JIM ; I HAVE A 65 3.8 S AND HAVE TROUBLE STARTING. THESE CARS HAVE STARTING CHOKES AND BELIEVE VERY SENSTIVE. QUICK TO FLOOD OR STARVE.
YOU HAVE TO PLAY WITH THE ACCELATOR PEDAL AND GET IT RIGHT.
I USE A STARTING FLUID INJECTING SOME IN THE CARBS AND GET A POP.AT WHICH IT WILL START. ONCE IT STARTS IT OK
GOOD LUCL

ED MESSIKIAN
JCSNE

There Is a small passage that runs horizontally from the bottom of the float bowl to the carburetor and continues to the starting carb. If there is any rust dust in the fuel this passage can become easily plugged.

I removed the selenoid and cleaned it. With it removed, ignition on and engine turning over I do not see (or smell) any fuel in the choke carb housing. I know the float bowl on the front (toward the radiator) carb is full . What controls the flow of fuel from the float bowel to the choke ?

I removed the selenoid and cleaned it. With it removed, ignition on and engine turning over I do not see (or smell) any fuel in the choke carb housing. I know the float bowl on the front (toward the radiator) carb is full . What controls the flow of fuel from the float bowel to the choke ?

Thanks Jeff !

I will look at the solenoid.

Edited on 2014-06-27 18:14:00
Thermostatic switch may be faulty or a bad ground or both.
Sounds like the solenoid in the starter choke isn't coming on _ not getting choked _ not enough gas.
Could be a faulty solenoid too.

You can easily check the solenoid by removing the 12 volt side and directly connecting it to the battery.
Sometimes the solenoids themselves become dirty and stick..

You said "All of the cylinders and plugs seem dry/ no smell of gas"
It should be flooded by now, from all the cranking, but nothing.