'62 MK2 3.8 Automatic needs Engine & Tranny Service

Which still makes all the more sense to try to start it to at least see what you have.
Carbs, ignition, they will be used again on a new rebuilt engine if necessary.

We'll I'm hesitant to give the names of the places I got the quotes from, they may read this, but one is local San Diego shop, highly recommened, and the other is in Texas, again highly recommended. In both cases the engine and carbs are out of the car and shipped off, or delivered locally, to be rebuilt, and then returned to me to be put back in the car. I do vaguely recall another quote from a local shop that was around $14k, but that was R&R the engine, carbs and tranny from the car. Right now she's sitting in the garage, looking beautiful, as that's basically all she's got going for her right now. The turn key show-driver quote I got was $100k. The Vicarage guy wanted to ship her to England to do the restoration and he started at $100k too. That's crazy money, I'd buy a new 2012 XF-R if I had a $100k burning a hole in my pocket.

There are a lot of shops that see someone with a Jaguar and see dollar signs.
Didn't we used to have a person like that in the club?
Claimed to be a Concours winner, judge, and all that, apparently so he could ask the big bucks?
Some of those places don't actually do the work. They bring them in, farm the engines out, and put their "markup" on them.
Add truck shipment and 40% markup on Dick's 6500, you're close to ten grand.

Wonder why they did not simply say $25,000 Crazy--Dick is spot on!

Good. I've run across local who paid that much. Maybe it included trucking it to wherever it was to be rebuilt and back.
6500 sounds better, locally, I know I can do mine for less, but half the cost some have paid is a good thing!

I guess we really need to go up on our rates. $6500 top to bottom with updated seals, tappet locked down, new pistons, line bored, latest style gaskets, detailed, new spark plugs, balanced etc and guaranteed. Now maybe they are including R&R the engine, rebuild the transmission, new radiator, hoses, carb rebuild, polishing all alumium, painting the engine compartment, etc for that $13,000-15,000. If not, you are making some really nice car payments for someone. If you have to have it done 3 times to get it right, you chose the wrong shop. That is nonsense.

I guess we really need to go up on our rates. $6500 top to bottom with updated seals, tappet locked down, new pistons, line bored, latest style gaskets, detailed, new spark plugs, balanced etc and guaranteed. Now maybe they are including R&R the engine, rebuild the transmission, new radiator, hoses, carb rebuild, polishing all alumium, painting the engine compartment, etc for that $13,000-15,000. If not, you are making some really nice car payments for someone. If you have to have it done 3 times to get it right, you chose the wrong shop. That is nonsense.

I know with my machine shop I could get one done a lot less....but if you go to a specialist, who knows this stuff, I've heard stories locally.
Even then, how about an XK-150 that had to have it done three times? Now, THAT gets expensive.
If I had to throw fifteen grand in my MK2, it would be leaving for someone else's house on a flatbed.

FIFTEEN THOUSAND for an engine rebuild? I must be living in a different world!

Good deal on the "inop" status!
I know about costs on engines.....that's why if it was my car, I'd be seeing if it would run. All the stuff I told you to do is needed no matter what, and/or transferrable to the new rebuild. Coolant...maybe not.
So, no idea what you paid for the car......"inop" and "unknown" should have made it real cheap. Add in fifteen grand for an engine, and how much for a transmission.....gets up there fast.
Dave

I was able to keep it as "Non-Operational", which is how the previous owner had it, and I was told at DMV that when I do go to register it, I will only be responsible for the fees from when title was transferred to me, not all the back fees the previous owner didn't pay. I got my fingers crossed. So far title transfer as non-op was $10 + the taxes on the sale price.

Tell me about expensive engine work, I've got 2 quotes so far, one for $15,500 and the other for $13,500. Ouch.

And I thought my photography hobby was expensive.

You are nuts. We all are!
BTW, a question....my understanding is that in California (happened since I left for good in early 1970), an inoperative vehicle needs to be registered (right word?) with the State as such, or you are liable for every year's license fees if you re-license it?
Of course, if it came to you from out of state, you're okay, I think, but you still have a narrow window to license it in the state?

Come back and let us know how it works out with the repairs.
I am reasonably certain someone in your local club will be willing to come help you get it checked out and started.
Full-on engine rebuilds can be expensive, so, if it has reasonable miles and runs good, you've dodged that bullet!

Heck, if I was in Sandy Eigo, I'd come and help you!
Dave

Thank you both. That is much more helpful. Especially the networking suggestion. I'm new to all this, and still not quite sure what I've gotten myself into. My family and friends think I'm totally nuts. DG

The above is good info if all else is good. Re the club, use their site to get started, I would do only the minumum to get the cars started, remove the plugs after making sure there is no garbage in the valley that can fall into a plug hole,, Put an ounce or so of oil into each one and let it sit a couple of days. Then turn the engine over first by hand if it top up the oil pan then check it has water in the radiator. You then hook up a good battery and turn it over, once oil circulated you will see that the engine turns easier. Turn it over and have someone watch the oil gauge, Once pressure builds up you can then prep it for a start. Check that you have a spark at a plug wire,clean the plugs, readjust and fit them, then, with an assistant try starting the car while spraying starter fluid into the air cleaner horn. With a bit of luck it should run on the fluid. If it does you can then plan for stage 2, Oh, check it has tranny fluid on the dipstick if not add some then check it again once it has run.

What seems to work in my local Jag club is, you go to a meeting, start "networking" with folks. Mention your issues. Someone will direct you to a source for needed repairs, ones to stay away from, maybe even a club member who specializes in the work you want done.
You have no history on why it was parked?
How big an oil slick was under it?
Me?
I'd try to get it running first.
Fuel tank out, cleaned, fuel pump rebuilt or replaced, look over the wiring closely, new battery, flush the fuel lines out, clean out the filter/separator inside the right wing, rebuild the carbs (none of this is wasted work..it will all have to be done after a 15-year sleep anyway), points, condensor,, clean and inspect cap and rotor, have new plugs handy, check oil, pull plugs, oil the cylinders (couple of big squirts of whatever engine oil is at hand), crank it with power lead to coil disconnected and taped, listen for oil pressure, and watch the gauge. Once you get oil pressure, and don't hear any clanks or bangs, new plugs in, check trans level, reconnect coil, see if it will run.
Reason for points and condensor is, pointy faces will corrode if not used, condensors can leak over time.
Water level....good idea to drain coolant, radiator and block, if nothing comes out of the block, remove the drain cock, and fish with a piece of welding rod, as garbage builds up.
Once it is running, it will smoke while burning off cylinder oil, select gears, see if it will engage, and check level again.
Do all the brakes at some point. Calipers, master, booster, hoses, pads, just because it's sat for 15 years.
Does that help any?
None of what you do is wasted....all will be re-used on a new engine.
Dave

Thanks. I joined the San Deigo chapter. When should I expect the help, and where from? My mom would say your post was about as useful as a pocket on the back of shirt.

Join the local club first then you will get help, as for the trans it is a borg warner design so find an established tranny shop!